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GS 1100 Head gasket torque question again

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    GS 1100 Head gasket torque question again

    OK my engine has about 400 mi on it since all new everything with a weisco 1166 kit
    When I put it together I used the cometic composit head gasket it didnt work it leaked.
    So I just pulled the head and block and replaced the base gasket with a factory one and the head gasket with a cometic MLS.
    Cometic says install the MLS head gasket and torque it down to factory specs 25.5 -29 ft lbs. the three 6mm bolts to 5.0-8.0 wait 20 minutes then one bolt at a time retorque with no heat cycle then you dont have to retorque it again ever.
    Does this work or do some of you check the torque again at say 100 miles
    And should I torque at the top of the range 29 ft lbs and 8.0 for the two sides and the 6mm in front.
    (PS stock factory studs)

    #2
    Originally posted by Street Fighter View Post
    OK my engine has about 400 mi on it since all new everything with a weisco 1166 kit
    When I put it together I used the cometic composit head gasket it didnt work it leaked.
    So I just pulled the head and block and replaced the base gasket with a factory one and the head gasket with a cometic MLS.
    Cometic says install the MLS head gasket and torque it down to factory specs 25.5 -29 ft lbs. the three 6mm bolts to 5.0-8.0 wait 20 minutes then one bolt at a time retorque with no heat cycle then you dont have to retorque it again ever.
    Does this work or do some of you check the torque again at say 100 miles
    And should I torque at the top of the range 29 ft lbs and 8.0 for the two sides and the 6mm in front.
    (PS stock factory studs)
    I don't know the answer, but from your description the MLS is designed to not have to re-torque the head gasket, but that doesn't mean that it will go wrong if you do re-torque it. So a retorque is still optional.

    Also did you use a cometic base gasket also warranted by cometic? If not how are they going to guarantee the results if a composite base gasket settles?

    I would re-toque and recheck your valves after a couple of heat cycles. You might go a little longer 250 miles if you believe any of the cosmetic claims.

    Since you don't seem to have massive oil leaks I assume they have corrected the original design flaws of the first MLS gaskets.

    As far as torque range I would make sure you have a good technique (clean and oiled threads; calibrated wrench, proper technique) l for measuring torque and stay consistently on the hi side. BTW nothing I describe requires anything other than a HF torque wrench.
    Last edited by posplayr; 01-01-2014, 02:09 PM.

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      #3
      I have done this twice on my 850. I used the old style asbestos type gasket the first time and the MLS the second. I had to re-torque both after heat cycles to get it back to target torque. The OEM MLS developed oil leaks until I increased the torque to 32 ft lbs. Since then no problems.

      When I had mine apart I didn't resurface the cylinder or head and I think the minor imperfections in the surface was the cause of the leaks. I would suggest doing that if you use the MLS.

      Good luck
      Last edited by Guest; 01-01-2014, 02:27 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by bbjumper View Post
        I have done this twice on my 850. I used the old style asbestos type gasket the first time and the MLS the second. I had to re-torque both after heat cycles to get it back to target torque. The OEM MLS developed oil leaks until I increased the torque to 32 ft lbs. Since then no problems.

        When I had mine apart I didn't resurface the cylinder or head and I think the minor imperfections in the surface was the cause of the leaks. I would suggest doing that if you use the MLS.

        Good luck
        That is the caveat in all MLS technologies; near perfectly machined surfaces. Although you can not achieve perfection Big Jay has clarified the surface finish requirement and has specified that a"Pretty" finish will have no problems.

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          #5
          I have a Snap on digital torque wrench just calabrated.
          400 miles since I had the head and block serviced.
          factory base gasket.

          Comment


            #6
            I re-torque REGARDLESS of gasket brand or material. I also go to 32 ft. lbs. on stock studs on any performance build that I can't talk the owner into using better studs. Ray.

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              #7
              Ray, if they get the better studs how tight do you go?
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #8
                Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                Ray, if they get the better studs how tight do you go?
                I go with forty.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #9
                  40 for customer's..
                  45 for my own stuff...

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                    #10
                    what torque on the three outside little bolts

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                      #11
                      80-100 inch pounds.
                      (these will BREAK)

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