Tried Turning My Engine Over- Did I do Damage?

[Guest]

Engine is seized. So I put a breaker bar on the timing bolt (the bigger one behind the small one) and the bolt on the other side of the engine (where the stator sits).

I felt the bolts move and creak. In trying to turn the engine with these bolts, did I adjust/possibly strip threads?

I'm a bit concerned about turning these any further.

[DavidT]

Here's the stator side bolt I tried tightening:

[Steve]

Your best bet will be to use the 19mm hex on the right end of the crank.

But, before you do that, put some sort of penetrating fluid in the cylinders to help break things loose.
Thin oil might work, but reportedly the best fluid is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid).

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[DavidT]

So. Tightening these bolts won't strip anything/screw up any timing?

[Nessism]

If the engine is locked up turning those screws is the least of your troubles.

[sharpy]

that bolt is only 8mm thick and sits on a pin. very weak way to spin the engine over. Do way more harn than good.

[DavidT]

Also. If anyone gets a shot: can you take a pic of your cable/choke linkage on the carb? It seems that when I pull my choke, it'll open a bit, but then there'll be interference between the linkages, and it won't open any further...

I realize this'll only matter when I replace the cylinders and pistons, but I'm still curious.

[Steve]

Also. If anyone gets a shot: can you take a pic of your cable/choke linkage on the carb? It seems that when I pull my choke, it'll open a bit, but then there'll be interference between the linkages, and it won't open any further...

I realize this'll only matter when I replace the cylinders and pistons, but I'm still curious.

You want pictures of specific stuff, you are going to have to give us some more clues.

What bike do you have? Size? Year?

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[chuck hahn]

DO NOT DO NOT use the 19MM as Steve suggested. Its just an aluminum adapter that has two dogs that mesh with the governor...they will shear right off easily.

If its siezed, take off the startor cover, wrap the rotor with an old leather belt and use a long pipe wrench. Of courese we are to assume youve soaked the pistons well for a few days with something to penetrate and loosen the rings from the cylinder walls......yes?????

[chuck hahn]

And YES..over tightening them two bolts that go directly to the crank can strip them out and then your bent over an old stump without grease...do as I posted earlier with the leather to protect the rotor and break it free.

[tkent02]

I'd go with the acetone and ATF mixture, and time. Give it a lot of time to work. .

[Badooka]

Marvel mystery oil is great for un seizing but if you have the tran/acetone will work also-
I can feel the pain on this endeavor- lots of luck and stay on it!

[DavidT]

Thanks a lot guys. This is my first bike, so this is all new to me. I was thinking I might just take the engine off the bike and remove the head. Maybe put wood on a piston and bang her down?

Of course, if that doesn't work, I won't have much leverage to turn the engine over via the belt method mentioned earlier (as the engine won't be fastened to the sturdy, heavy frame and may just rotate as a whole).

Yes. I've used marvel mystery oil.

This is a GS550, by the way. And I did give that 19mm a decent dug. Didn't bust it, though it was starting to make some noise. I'm wondering: 1. Am I doomed? 2. Did I fuss with the timing?

[chuck hahn]

No your not doomed. get a pipe wrench that will fit the rotor and maybe a cheater pipe for good leverage. Soak the cylinders for 3 or 4 days and then break it loose. Go a little forward..then a little backward..then a little more frontward till its spinning all the way around.

Patience and persistance are your friends here.

[eil]

Your first bike and it has a seized engine?! You really like to do things the hard way, eh?

Hope all goes well with the rebuild. If you find yourself in the market for a running bike, I have an 850 that may come up for sale in the spring...