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GS1100 Clutch troubles

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    GS1100 Clutch troubles

    I have a 1980 GS1100E that I just purchased. I replaced the leaking clutch cover gasket, put it back on, and now I can't get the clutch to fully engage. No matter how tight the cable is, I can't seem to get it all the way engaged, the wheel still spins in first gear with the clutch in! I'd say its about 60% engaged when the lever is pulled back all the way.

    In relation to the cable itself, should the clutch release arm be at a slight angle while being parallel to the clutch cover? I couldn't find anything that specifies the position of it online or in the shop manual.

    #2
    Originally posted by DFWSpeedster View Post

    should the clutch release arm be at a slight angle while being parallel to the clutch cover?
    That sounds like your issue. Pull the arm off the splined shaft again and move it one tooth.
    82 1100 EZ (red)

    "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

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      #3
      Originally posted by bonanzadave View Post
      That sounds like your issue. Pull the arm off the splined shaft again and move it one tooth.
      One tooth in which direction? Should the arm be parallel to the cover? I can't find a picture of how it should look

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        #4
        Originally posted by DFWSpeedster View Post
        One tooth in which direction? Should the arm be parallel to the cover?

        No. Mine is not parallel. Definitely out a couple teeth.

        Look at Robs photo. Post #4

        Place your GS general or maintenance related questions in this forum.
        Last edited by bonanzadave; 02-25-2014, 11:30 PM.
        82 1100 EZ (red)

        "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

        Comment


          #5
          The arms are usually always pointing out a bit. If you grab the arm you'll notice you can actually push it in towards the engine a bit before you can feel any pressure against it. So basically you want it to connect to the cable just before that point of pressure. A bit of playing around with it and you'll have the right spot then you can fine adjust your cable.
          Rob
          1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
          Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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            #6
            Upside down

            Originally posted by bonanzadave View Post
            Rob's upside down photo!
            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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              #7
              Originally posted by bonanzadave View Post
              No. Mine is not parallel. Definitely out a couple teeth.

              Look at Robs photo. Post #4

              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=218761
              Thanks! So if for some reason this doesn't fix the issue, could there be a chance that my clutch cable is just old and stretched?

              Comment


                #8
                Your cable could be bad,but also if the steel plates in your clutch are warped it could cause that,too.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Was it working fine before? if so then your cable and clutch are just fine, you just need to find the 'sweet' spot with the arm and cable.
                  Rob
                  1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                  Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well, I removed the cable from the arm, and manually moved it from the starting position to the final position, and the wheel still rotates even though the clutch should be engaged. I'm thinking now it could be a problem with the clutch springs? I can't imagine a clutch with only 20k miles on it going bad.

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                      #11
                      I took off the clutch cover, and the whole clutch basket is "loose". There are many metal shavings from where the basket was making contact with the inside of the block. I point it out 0:15 into the video.



                      I forgot to mention that the bike hasn't been ridden in 20 years. I just removed the clutch plates and, judging by how stuck together they were, I believe that could be the reason that the clutch is dragging. I'll coat the plates individually in fresh oil, reassemble, and see if the clutch stops dragging.
                      Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2014, 04:58 PM.

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                        #12
                        The aluminum shavings you see were probably cause from improper placement of one of the clutch cover bolts. It looks like the hub has been shaved down a bit on the outer edge in the video. This is caused when the longest clutch cover bolt is placed into the wrong hole. If you look at the bolt hole 15 seconds into the vidio you can see how a bolt going to far thru the threads will hit the hub.
                        Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2014, 05:17 PM.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by zuzu View Post
                          The aluminum shavings you see were probably cause from improper placement of one of the clutch cover bolts. It looks like the hub has been shaved down a bit on the outer edge in the video. This is caused when the longest clutch cover bolt is placed into the wrong hole. If you look at the bolt hole 15 seconds into the vidio you can see how a bolt going to far thru the threads will hit the hub.
                          I guess I should watch how many beers I have before diving into this. Yikes! Sure enough, I buttoned it all up (sober) and no noise whatsoever!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I reassembled the oiled clutch plates, measured them and the springs (they were all within factory spec) and the damn thing STILL drags! I guess I'll look into new plates

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                              #15
                              That clutch basket is wasted. It should not wobble that much. The gear is not moving as much as the basket. Backing plate and rivets are shot.

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