In relation to the cable itself, should the clutch release arm be at a slight angle while being parallel to the clutch cover? I couldn't find anything that specifies the position of it online or in the shop manual.
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GS1100 Clutch troubles
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GS1100 Clutch troubles
I have a 1980 GS1100E that I just purchased. I replaced the leaking clutch cover gasket, put it back on, and now I can't get the clutch to fully engage. No matter how tight the cable is, I can't seem to get it all the way engaged, the wheel still spins in first gear with the clutch in! I'd say its about 60% engaged when the lever is pulled back all the way.
In relation to the cable itself, should the clutch release arm be at a slight angle while being parallel to the clutch cover? I couldn't find anything that specifies the position of it online or in the shop manual.Tags: None
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Originally posted by DFWSpeedster View Post
should the clutch release arm be at a slight angle while being parallel to the clutch cover?82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
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Originally posted by DFWSpeedster View PostOne tooth in which direction? Should the arm be parallel to the cover?
No. Mine is not parallel. Definitely out a couple teeth.
Look at Robs photo. Post #4
Last edited by bonanzadave; 02-25-2014, 11:30 PM.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
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The arms are usually always pointing out a bit. If you grab the arm you'll notice you can actually push it in towards the engine a bit before you can feel any pressure against it. So basically you want it to connect to the cable just before that point of pressure. A bit of playing around with it and you'll have the right spot then you can fine adjust your cable.Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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DFWSpeedster
Originally posted by bonanzadave View PostNo. Mine is not parallel. Definitely out a couple teeth.
Look at Robs photo. Post #4
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=218761
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megatwin
Your cable could be bad,but also if the steel plates in your clutch are warped it could cause that,too.
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Was it working fine before? if so then your cable and clutch are just fine, you just need to find the 'sweet' spot with the arm and cable.Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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DFWSpeedster
Well, I removed the cable from the arm, and manually moved it from the starting position to the final position, and the wheel still rotates even though the clutch should be engaged. I'm thinking now it could be a problem with the clutch springs? I can't imagine a clutch with only 20k miles on it going bad.
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DFWSpeedster
I took off the clutch cover, and the whole clutch basket is "loose". There are many metal shavings from where the basket was making contact with the inside of the block. I point it out 0:15 into the video.
I forgot to mention that the bike hasn't been ridden in 20 years. I just removed the clutch plates and, judging by how stuck together they were, I believe that could be the reason that the clutch is dragging. I'll coat the plates individually in fresh oil, reassemble, and see if the clutch stops dragging.Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2014, 04:58 PM.
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zuzu
The aluminum shavings you see were probably cause from improper placement of one of the clutch cover bolts. It looks like the hub has been shaved down a bit on the outer edge in the video. This is caused when the longest clutch cover bolt is placed into the wrong hole. If you look at the bolt hole 15 seconds into the vidio you can see how a bolt going to far thru the threads will hit the hub.Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2014, 05:17 PM.
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DFWSpeedster
Originally posted by zuzu View PostThe aluminum shavings you see were probably cause from improper placement of one of the clutch cover bolts. It looks like the hub has been shaved down a bit on the outer edge in the video. This is caused when the longest clutch cover bolt is placed into the wrong hole. If you look at the bolt hole 15 seconds into the vidio you can see how a bolt going to far thru the threads will hit the hub.
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DFWSpeedster
I reassembled the oiled clutch plates, measured them and the springs (they were all within factory spec) and the damn thing STILL drags! I guess I'll look into new plates
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