really loose valves

[Charlie G]

I checked the valves of an 1100g I picked up a few months back in preparation to try a start this bike and all of the valves were at least .102mm and the three largest were .178mm, .127mm , & .203mm. I've always thought a bit loose is better than tight and I'm looking other opinions. I take it this condition wouldn't cause much harm but not allow the valves to open as far as they could. Right?

Thanks

cg

[tkent02]

Too lose and they might spit out at high RPMs, I haven't ever seen it but I don't go over .1mm, usually aim for .08mm. Don't know how lose is actually dangerous. Yes you are losing about .1mm of valve lift, don't think that will matter much..

[azr]

Wow, those are huge gaps Charlie. You sure you measured correctly? A bit looser is better than tight for sure but with that type of space won't that effect the vacuum and the bike won't start? I'm sure someone else will chime in with more knowledge than I.

[Charlie G]

Wow, those are huge gaps Charlie. You sure you measured correctly? A bit looser is better than tight for sure but with that type of space won't that effect the vacuum and the bike won't start? I'm sure someone else will chime in with more knowledge than I.

I'm use to tight as ell gaps when I work on a new bike. This threw me for a loop. Yes I'm pretty sure I did it right. I don't know how I could screw it up that bad Thanks for the input.

cg

[Big T]

Maybe someone confused standard and metric?

What size shims are in there?

I've got a bunch of fat ones in the box

[azr]

Ohhh...you'd be surprised if you work around me I've had to go back many a time and remeasure. I really should buy feeler gauges that have only metric on them, not both.

[Charlie G]

Maybe someone confused standard and metric?

What size shims are in there?

I've got a bunch of fat ones in the box

I need a 2.45, 2.50 & 2.65. I've got an e-mail off to ArtH to see if he has some. I think he bought a kit of them from Z-1. Thanks

cg

[Charlie G]

Ohhh...you'd be surprised if you work around me I've had to go back many a time and remeasure. I really should buy feeler gauges that have only metric on them, not both.

I did check them several times but I have been known to screw things up.

cg

[Nessism]

Does the engine have compression? If not, the valves could be bent, thus not seating and large clearances.

[Steve]

... all of the valves were at least .102mm and the three largest were .178mm, .127mm , & .203mm.

Too lose and they might spit out at high RPMs, I haven't ever seen it but I don't go over .1mm, usually aim for .08mm. Don't know how lose is actually dangerous.

I just went out to the garage and measured a spare bucket. The recess in which the shim sits is roughly 2mm deep. I would think that it would take a clearance of just over half of that to allow one edge to lift 2mm, so there is no danger of spitting shims due to excessive clearance until you get over 1mm clearance.

I could be wrong (again ), but that's the way I see it.

.

[tkent02]

They spit shims at high enough RPMs even with the correct clearance. I would think any looser would make it happen at a more normal RPM?

Dunno, 3,000 over the red line on a 550 many many times and it never spit one.

[Charlie G]

Does the engine have compression? If not, the valves could be bent, thus not seating and large clearances.

I haven't gotten that far yet. The PO did mention the compression was low in one cylinder, I believe he said #4. The same one that had the 2 largest clearances. Thanks.

cg

[chef1366]

Loose valves would not lower compression.

[Nessism]

Loose valves would not lower compression.

Depends on why they are loose.

[Big T]

If Art doesn't have them, let me know

I'd run a cold compression test and see what you've got

Then proceed to checking the low cylinder, if one exists