GS1100ES Clutch Hub Stuff

[chef1366]

The springs buffer the flex in the hub and can come out which will wreck havoc since the oil pump is driven by the backing plate.
I'd rebuild the hub.

[blowerbike]

Little update for ya (and maybe hopefully a little advice)

So I pulled the clutch from my parts bike. That hub also has indentations from the plates. But they are not nearly as bad as the original clutch shown in the pictures. So I'm thinking the spare clutch is workable.

BUT... as it seems with a lot of these GS1100's (from what I have been reading) 1/2 the springs are lose and rattle. So, what is the effect of the rattling springs? Will it just make noise? Or will it affect performance or make the clutch hard to operate?

I was hoping to not spend a fortune getting this thing back on the road. But at the same time, I want a bike I can be confident in for a number of years. In other words I planned on keeping and riding this thing (since I can't afford a Katana ). But it certainly will not be logging many miles (too many other things to ride and I don't ride in the rain cuz I'm a wus )

Options? Thoughts? Comments?

the result could be an exploded clutch basket/broken engine cases/ and possibly oil on your rear tire and road rash or death..
there you have it.
as chef said...it needs an HD backing plate kit to be 100% sure of no future failures...or a nice stock/semi tight basket to replace it with(normal riding only).
shimming the springs and re-welding does not make it any stronger, it just gives a person a false sense of security.

[hotrods316]

well KAtman posted this exact how to on his website and it was intended to stop the loose springs from rattling around it the pocket of the hub. And as of now this was just a stock bike that the OP was trying to resolve an issue of spring rattle. Not build a racebike. So in the interest of the usual DIY-er I posted a tip on how to remove the spring rattle on these bikes from an experience that I and other GS riders have done.
I am sorry for sharing knowledge to members of an online community. I only was hoping to help a guy out with a tip that i learned and felt prudent to share.

Ronin, feel free to use this tip,and know that it will cure your spring rattle that you originally were trying to fix!!!

[blowerbike]

you don't get it but that's ok........
i only posted what me and other member's was thinking....i'm not good at sugar coating.

[posplayr]

you don't get it but that's ok........
i only posted what me and other member's was thinking....i'm not good at sugar coating.

Please give your option so I can argue with it as I have already made up my mind.

[blowerbike]

huh,
i thought i did post my opinion?
his basket is beat down...ray Charles could see that.
install a nice stock basket and ride it like miss daisy or get a non grooved basket and have a HD kit installed.
better yet find a nice used HD basket and keep the change.

[hotrods316]

i need one

terry,
you got one laying around.i would be interested in buying your over someone elses
Matt

[gsx1100norway]

Observations from my clutch rebuild:
I had a major clutch ratling at idle, and decided to investigate it.
And , I found a major failure ,or I will describe it as a design fail, because the clutch hub itself realy ratle alot, and the reason was that the 3 pcs of nit/bolts that keep the clutch assembly together was about 1,5mm higher than it should.
The solution was to make 3 pcs of plane rivets 1,5mm thick 16,5mm inside and 26mm outside to shim up for the mismatch.
Weld all together , and just better than new.

The origin design is OK until the springs that are pressed to the clutch basket grinds of enough material of the basket to let the basket start ratle...
Simsalabim ... !! :-)

Knut

[63ronin]

One more update...

First, I appreciate everyone's feedback. I'm an Engineer by trade and I'm always amazed at how many different opinions folks can come up with in meetings. But I'm always right, of course...

Anyhow, after reviewing all the opinions and looking at options I figure I'm not even sure the bike actually runs yet. So just as an interim step to bring the bike back to life I decided to use the best parts from my two bikes. I've installed the basket from my parts GS1100E with the hub from the original ES. Steels were still fine in both bikes. But I did install new fiber plates. Also used the clutch springs from the parts GS. This will, at the very least I hope, move the bike closer to being back on the road. Clutch is sure a lot easier to pull now.

Once I'm sure the bike will actually run and be rideable I'll look at a proper solution for the clutch. I really like those APE billet clutch hubs. I think that might be a nice fit...

[londonboards]

and the reason was that the 3 pcs of nit/bolts that keep the clutch assembly together was about 1,5mm higher than it should.
The solution was to make 3 pcs of plane rivets 1,5mm thick 16,5mm inside and 26mm outside to shim up for the mismatch.
Weld all together , and just better than new.

Do you mean the rivets - like the 3 that show on this hub:



Or are you talking about something else?

Greetings