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82 1100 e crank question

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    82 1100 e crank question

    whats a normal crankshaft taper appearance for 82 1100 E . Mine tapers up to a small flat behind the flat is a lip is this normal . I am not sure what it should look like . I pulled the starter clutch chasing a rattle it was tight and in good condition . I have new springs rollers etc but it don't need them . The only thing I realy found wrong is that I was missing 1 thrust washer off the starter gear pin could this cause the rattle . I would like to confirm condition of taper on crank before reassembly . thanks

    #2
    You don't even need the washers on the idle gear.
    Is the taper chewed up at all? If not slap it together with a little red Loctite on the taper and tighten it down with a rattle gun.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      I don't recall a 'lip' behind the taper... but then my memory ain't that crash hot. :-)
      But let's say that it's not meant to have a lip... what are you going to do now? Well, if it was my bike, I'd just take chef1366's advice and nip it up properly with a smudge of Loctite. Don't overdo it with the Loctite, mind... we just want to stop the rotor spinning or flogging around.

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        #4
        The inner bearing runs on the "lip"
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          The taper is not chewed up just has some minor wear . This is my first time looking at a crank taper so just practicing attention to detail . I just grabbed some red loctite and will go with that plan . If anyone knows the specs on that taper (as in low end and high end of taper) I would like to know thanks for the reply's

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            #6
            I have always used valve lapping compound on all my flywheel tapered surfaces, Apply a small amount to the crank and to the inside of the rotor and install it on the crank and keep rotating it back and forth until you get a good flat grey semi rough surface on both pieces, Dry both pieces with lacquer thinner and tighten accordingly. Has worked on every kind of flywheel that kept coming off for years. MC's ATV'S etc. Not too sure about the Loctite never had to use it or need it if it was lapped in properly so can't help there.
            sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

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