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Morrison
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Here's a tutorial for the VM carbs: VM Rebuild Tutorial
You may want to visit here for more information: BikeCliff's Websitehttp://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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The head gasket will usually reseal when you retorque them..had a 1000 engine that was loose head bolts and once retorqued it doesnt weep.
As for the cams..as was said, if the head s journal areas look good and not half melted etc etc, heck the cam journal measurements and reuse if within specs. No need to tear the off at this point is my opinion. I would carefully remove just the head so as to not ruin the base gasket and do the valve stems seals though.
EDIT.....Just saw the head and cap pics. I dont see anything abnormal there to me.Last edited by chuck hahn; 04-20-2014, 09:49 AM.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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VM carbs are much easier. Take them apart, dip them or go with the ultrasonic cleaner. Shoot spray carb cleaner through all of the passages, watch where and how it comes out to ensure they are all clear. All four carbs should exibit the same spray pattern on all of the passages. Put them back together with new O rings. Adjust the float height. Bench synch by eyeball or with a small wire. Get it running and do a vacuum synch, adjust idle, etc.
The only tricky part is not breaking off the tips of the fuel screws, do not bottom them out, even lightly. They are tiny and break off very easily. Look in the bore from the front, when the tip sticks up out of the port a tiny bit you will feel it get a tiny bit tighter, you are there. Do not go any further. I usually oil the threads and put it in with no spring on the screw at first to see how the tip sticks out when it is in, then put it back in to the same point with the spring in place.
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Morrison
Thanks tKENT they seem straight forward, ive rebuilt many of carbs from cars to bikes. Ill get to it soon id imagine I should order my oring kit first right?
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Originally posted by Morrison View PostThanks tKENT they seem straight forward, ive rebuilt many of carbs from cars to bikes. Ill get to it soon id imagine I should order my oring kit first right?
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Soaking used bowl gaskets in a baggie with WD40 seems to swell them up and makes them reusable too.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Morrison
Also tkent there was zero signs of black dust. Ive been using basscliffs site regularly, there is alot there so I havent found everything. Plan as of now im gna wait for my shims from Ray, install them and recheck the valve clearance. Chuck do I use a plastigauge for checking the journals?
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Originally posted by Morrison View PostAlso tkent there was zero signs of black dust.
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