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    Clutch slipping or something else?

    Riding my bike today anytime I would try to accelerate quickly in the same gear the rpms would really seem to jump while the bike would barely go faster. It would all seem to "catch up" but it almost seemed like the bike was free revving and then catching later. Just changed oil but the previous owner had left the petcock on "prime." Would any leftover gas cause the clutch to slip? I used Rotella diesel oil. 15w-40

    Thanks.

    #2
    Sounds like the clutch is slipping. Since you have the proper oil and it is fresh, I doubt you have fuel in the oil. Either weak springs (replace with OEM springs) and/or worn plates (measure thickness with calipers or micrometer). If they are within tolerance, knock any glaze off them and reinstall.

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      #3
      So to be safe- replace springs, friction plates, and a new gasket. Anything else needed?

      Thanks!

      Comment


        #4
        I was experiencing some slip on my first few rides of the season, but it seemed to go away (my theory only) as the clutch got more use, or warmer, or both. Also happened right after I changed the oil, but then went away with use. I also adjusted it to make sure it was closing completely, but not so far as to make neutral unattainable. Seems to be rock solid now. (again, I'm a novice - just relating my experience)

        Have you tried adjusting it yet? Any play at the handle?

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          #5
          General forum is to try the springs first, assuming the plates are in spec (which is likely). You can always do the plates later if the clutch still slips.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            General forum is to try the springs first, assuming the plates are in spec (which is likely). You can always do the plates later if the clutch still slips.
            Agreed. I already bought a set for mine (springs only) for when it starts slipping again.

            Scotty - how many miles on your bike? Original clutch?

            Comment


              #7
              While you are in there it does no harm to spec the steels and fibers. Get a caliper and a manual for the specs.
              I buy a set of Barnett HD springs and scatter them with the stock springs three and three. EBC springs also work well.
              Also get a gasket.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #8
                The springs are almost certainly shorter than when they were new. Plate wear depends entirely on the PO. Springs are cheap, plates are not. Super easy to go in twice if necessary, don't even have to drain the oil. Eight or so screws and you're in.
                If they are within spec no need to replace, unless they have been ruined by some wierd oil or by too much slipping, or you just love to spend money needlessly.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by A-train View Post
                  Agreed. I already bought a set for mine (springs only) for when it starts slipping again.

                  Scotty - how many miles on your bike? Original clutch?
                  Bike has about 23,000 miles- no idea if the clutch is original or not.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Can't seem to find the gasket except in the Barnett complete kit on ebay ($180).
                    Order directly from Suzuki?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by scottyknows50 View Post
                      Can't seem to find the gasket except in the Barnett complete kit on ebay ($180).
                      Order directly from Suzuki?
                      Nevermind, found one.

                      BTW- there is no slack in the clutch cable- as soon as I am pulling the lever the little arm down below is moving.

                      Thanks guys.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You should have some slack. This makes sure the clutch is fully released.
                        Curt
                        sigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by scottyknows50 View Post
                          Can't seem to find the gasket except in the Barnett complete kit on ebay ($180).
                          Order directly from Suzuki?
                          Check eBay or any Suzuki sales site.
                          I have a bunch if you have no luck.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by bellucci View Post
                            You should have some slack. This makes sure the clutch is fully released.
                            Curt
                            Good to know, this could be part of my problem then.

                            Thanks.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by scottyknows50 View Post
                              Good to know, this could be part of my problem then.

                              Thanks.

                              If there's no slack in the cable it can't help but slip easier. Exactly like riding along with your fingers pulling on the lever part way all the time. The clutch is partially disengaged all the time, a little of the spring tension is taken off the plates.
                              It may be 100% of your problem, at least it was until the clutch plates started to burn up from too much slipping.

                              It also wears out the lever, the perch, the cable, all of the parts along the way from the lever to the clutch plates.
                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                              Life is too short to ride an L.

                              Comment

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