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Clutch slipping or something else?
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Originally posted by scottyknows50 View PostLast edited by mrbill5491; 04-26-2014, 10:45 AM.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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scottyknows50
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scottyknows50
Well, tried adjusting the cable to get a bit of slack and I don't know what I messed up now. There is a bit of slack in the cable now but now my clutch is MUCH easier to pull than before and won't engage all the way. If I put the bike in 1st and pull on the clutch lever I can't roll the bike. I assume it's the clutch springs that give the pressure you feel on the cable? I have new ones coming but I'm not sure why I can't pull my clutch in all the way now.
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koolaid_kid
You won't be able to roll the bike with the engine not running, bike in first gear, clutch pulled in. Not gonna happen, even if it is functioning properly. Unless you are really, really determined. And strong. And headed downhill.
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scottyknows50
Well, it stays engaged no matter what now.
I tried what I believe tkent? said in another post- try to ride the bike in first with the clutch lever pulled in giving it some throttle trying to loosen the clutch plates. Rode it around the farm as much as I dared but it didn't seem to do any good.
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zuzu
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scottyknows50
The lever at the bottom is much looser now (somehow???). Before I was messing with stuff it would barely move by hand. Now it moves pretty freely.
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scottyknows50
My youtube video of me playing with the clutch....and mumbling. Basically I was showing the amount of slack on the clutch lever on the bars and then how easy it was for me to move the lever. Should be more resistance. Plates sticking together? Springs just shot?
I'm at a loss right now.
Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63T46iQ2g64
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koolaid_kid
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scottyknows50
Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostYou now have about twice the play you should have. Reduce it by half and retest.
Thanks for all the input!
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srg
Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostYou won't be able to roll the bike with the engine not running, bike in first gear, clutch pulled in. Not gonna happen, even if it is functioning properly. Unless you are really, really determined. And strong. And headed downhill.
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Originally posted by srg View PostWhy is that, if you don't mind me asking? I know in my manual transmission car, this would work.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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srg
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostDifference is the car has two components to grab and the bike has nine steels and nine fibers. Difficult to budge especially with cold oil.
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Originally posted by srg View PostSo the plates are still "stuck together" even if the spring tension is released (by holding the clutch in)? Thanks for the explanation!
worn perk/clutch lever(bad)
notched basket/inner hub (bad)
big fat grips(bad)
an adjustment for one person may not give the same results for another.
hand size/finger length ect..
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