Chain just broke

[JEEPRUSTY]

Golly gee gosh. I could never do it without the sprocket cover off on mine.
Mind you my bike is the sublime GS 550 and not a ***** replacement therapy.

[tkent02]

Now, for the technical opinions. Chef is sending me a 96-link 630 chain (I know, I should go 530). Being that the one I just left on the side of the road was a 96-link 630, I was thinking I could install the replacement without removing the foot peg, shift linkage and front sprocket cover.

Thoughts?

Better not try anything you can't do with a butter knife. Wait, this is just toooo good to be true, you're going with yet ANOTHER used chain on mismatched sprockets? You can't be trusted with a butter knife either.

[Rob S.]

AAA Plus membership, up to 100 miles. You won't always be 3 miles from home. Worth every penny

Got it. But since I was so close, I wanted to do it manually. Lost count of how many times I had to stop and catch my breath.

I kept thinking I would have trouble getting her up the driveway into the garage, which neighbors or nephews could I call, but that was no problem. Now if I had a V-Max, this never would've happened.

[tkent02]

Now if I had common sense, this never would've happened.

Fixed .

[JEEPRUSTY]

Chain regardless of mismatch will wear in. It will have accelerated wear but there is no voodoo in parts re-mating.

[Notz]

That sucks, but I'm glad you're ok. A guy I know had a clip type master link come apart in the Holland tunnel. Talk about excitement......Regarding the chain- my first GS came to me with an el cheapo non o ring chain. I had to adjust it weekly. It pays to get a good chain.

I've always had my reservations about (clip) master links. Which is why I've never had one. I get the best chain I can afford and peen it (rivet type) over myself.

[tkent02]

Not if it breaks first. Too tight is especilly bad with worn sprockets. The tooth shape will never be repaired, nor the link spacing. It will wear fast and it will soon break. A normal person could use a used chain temporary, keep it loose, take it easy and keep an eye on it. Not this guy.

[Steve]

You're the most negative guy on here. But...I have learned something from you ...

No, he is actually quite FAR from "negative".

He can be described as "brutally honest".

You may have learned something from him, hopefully it was something about adjusting chain tension.



Now, you want to learn a little bit more?

Chains don't stretch.

There is nothing in the metal that allows it to stretch, and there is not enough power in our bike engines to cause any stretch. The reason adjustment becomes necessary is because excess tension will wear out the holes around the pins. Where does this excess tension come from? A mis-adjusted chain.

There are three points of interest regarding proper chain adjustment: 1. The transmission output shaft (the front sprocket). 2. The swingarm pivot. 3. The rear axle. Simple trigonometry will tell you that the distance from the output shaft to the rear axle is greatest when the three are in a straight line. If you adjust your chain tension to your snug preferences when the three are NOT in a line, tension will increase considerably when you sit on the bike and line up the three points. This just might be why your chain failed.

To find the ideal amount of slack for your chain, find a way to line up the three points. Use a ratchet strap around the top of the bike and through the wheel to pull it up or you can make it easier by removing the shocks and put some blocks under the wheel to raise it to the proper height. Now you can adjust your chain to your snug preferences, knowing that this is the tightest it will ever be. Put the bike back to "normal". Put the shocks back on, release the ratchet straps, whatever. Put it on the centerstand, if it's not there already, and measure your slack. Use THAT as your proper amount of slack.

.

[Nessism]

[posplayr]

Now, for the technical opinions. Chef is sending me a 96-link 630 chain (I know, I should go 530). Being that the one I just left on the side of the road was a 96-link 630, I was thinking I could install the replacement without removing the foot peg, shift linkage and front sprocket cover.

Thoughts?

I know everybody has been recommending to not go to dealer to have work done, but that was not to avoid doing maintenance and also not to suggest using USED replacements on high criticality parts.

[Rob S.]

Remember when your mom wouldn't let you have that tricyle whe you were eleven?

She knew. Quit while you're ahead.

Spell check, dude. Or at least "Preview Post".

My chain and sprockets came with this used motorcycle six months ago. So, yeah, I guess you could say the chain was used. The sprockets were not mismatched, but you always assume the negative.

Why don't we call it even and we both quit?

[Rob S.]

Fixed .

Are there any rules here against misquoting somebody? That is, making up a statement and posting it as a "Quote"?

Because that is what tkent02 has just done.

[Rob S.]

Yeah, I know I'm arrogant and negative.

You like being misquoted?

BTW, I'm not the only one who feels this way about you.

Now, I apologize for everything negative I've said about you.

Can we let it drop and be friends, or will you answer with another snide comment?

[tkent02]

Ok .

[GSXR7ED]

630 Chain

Thanks for this...

As for OP, glad you're okay.

Back to the chain...I just received a 630 from MrBill. We couldn't get my "T's" front sprocket hub nut loosened and my 630 was in terrible shape so he offered me his relatively new 630 chain (that was't going back on his bike).

Anyway, I heard mention of this link ring and remembered Bill said the open part of the link should be pointed towards the rear tire as it may come off if put in the wrong direction.

Thanks to Bill, I now know how to adjust my chain accordingly (based on the graph too)



Ed