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Endless chain replacement?

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    #1

    Endless chain replacement?

    Has anyone ever replaced their chain with an endless? That's what came on my 1100EZ in '82, and that's what Suzuki recommends for replacement. I don't recall ever even seeing them for sale.

    I just retrieved my old chain from the side of the parkway, and I count 95 (95 1/2?) links. It's all there, except the connecting link (what's it called, spring clip, c-clip?)

    Oh jeez, here comes the trouble.

    "You've got that greasy thing on our bed?"

    "If it was all that greasy, it wouldn't have broken in the first place. Were these sheets white? Sorry, my bad."

    Anyway, has anyone ever seen an endless on anything but a new bike?
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Yes, you have to remove the swingarm to replace the chain. Not too big a deal, definirtely a D I Y thing, and the swingarm bearings need to be cleaned and greased by now anyway.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      While we're on the topic of swing arm bearings, (I feel free to hijack my own thread), I remember replacing them (myself!) to cure front wheel wiggling on my CB350 37 years ago.

      What's the proper order of things to check for head wagging on my '82 1100e? Sometimes I can ride over my block's speed bumps with no hands no problem, other times as soon as I let go of the bars they start moving.
      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

      Comment

        #4
        1) Once you loosen the nut on the front sprocket, follow this procedure. It does require the purchase of a tool, but you do not need to remove the swingarm.

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          #5
          or use a grinder grind a pin pop it out and remove the link on the old chain and remove chain....

          if your going to use another RIVETED chain and not a clip, you will need the tool to flare the pin to hold the chain together...

          .

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Grand Rouge
            [B]

            Rob, when you check out the price of the "Endless 96 link 630 chain....Suzuki Part Number 27600-49220...available (perhaps) only from a Suzuki dealer / parts vendor such as Partszilla / Deland etc. for about $310.00, get back to us re your next move.
            $300 chain? NOT!

            I'll go with the spring clip. (I know, closed end in direction of travel.)

            $300 chain? I'll get off and push.
            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

            Comment

              #7
              I just used the rivet type master link.
              Had a local shop put it together after I cleaned the factory lube off it.
              If you go this rout make sure they or you do it right.
              Make sure the master link has free movement.
              To easy for somebody to f up.

              From rear of bike string chain through and over new sprocket.

              Make sure chain is both above and below pivot of swingarm.

              The swingarm can be a tease to get back in place.
              I think I may have posted in a earlier thread of yours on how I like to keep the chain and brake/brake stay out of the way with bungees.

              After I get the swingarm in near placement I hold the rear of it up with a bungee cord also.

              Where the swingarm fits into the frame takes a bit of wriggling to get correct, Make sure the dust covers have the washers inside with a good smearing of grease on all parts.

              I cleaned mine before hand making sure I removed all the old grease and grime out of the groove going around the lip of cover.
              Then made sure the groove was re-greased along with everything else.



              Make sure the bolt going through the swingarm has a thin coating of grease.
              Most of it will rub off while pushing through, and will need to be wiped off the frame.

              Clean or replace the needle bearings and inner surface of swingarm shaft.
              Grease bearings and spacers. (go ahead and put a dollop of grease on your finger and spin all the bearings with it)


              I have seen a thread where somebody drilled and tapped a hole to insert a grease fitting.
              You would waste a lot of grease filling the shaft.

              I like to start the bolt on the frame just enough to hold the bolt in and keep a drift/punch handy on the other side.

              Once swingarm is nestled in place push in on bolt.
              Then insert punch/drift.
              While pushing in bolt line up with drift/punch on other side.



              Place washer on and tighten nut to spec.

              Hopefully you kept the brake and stay up and out of the way and the brake line above the swingarm.

              If i remember correctly it was easier to attach stay and brake before wheel mount.

              Make sure your lines are where they need to be and the crown nuts have new cotter pins inserted and spread.
              Last edited by Guest; 05-05-2014, 05:57 PM.

              Comment

                #8
                Ps. The punch/drift is real handy for realigning axle of rear tire too.

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