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I recently acquired a 18,800 mile 1983 gs850 gl in great cosmetic and running condition. I put 1k miles on it and the whole time it has run great; however, I changed the oil and filter at 19,800 miles (installed both of them correctly and to the right levels with bike on the center stand). The next time running the bike after the oil change it started running like crap. It would start and idle relatively fine, however the engine would bog down from 3-4k and then rev high. The video explains it a little more- I seriously would like some help as I do not want to spend too much more $ on this bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXvOrh4gAd4
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The oil change almost certainly didn't cause this. Either it's a coincidence or you bumped something else while doing maintenance. But just for kicks: what kind of oil did you put in it?
Could be an electrical issue... if the R/R and battery are not putting out enough juice, then the coils don't fire as they should. Try topping off the battery with a charger and see if that helps.
Most likely, your fuel/air intake path sprung a leak and now the engine is running very lean with the throttle open. Check that the airbox is sealed, all carbs boots are secure, and that the o-rings under the intake boots are intact. -
Oh, I just noticed this was your first post. Welcome!
I should have preceded my post above by asking: what maintenance have you done to the bike since you've owned it? Unless you personally know and trust the previous owner, the bike is probably decades behind its regular maintenance and you should assume that all of it needs to be done. Here's the starting point to everything you need to know about your bike: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=196338Comment
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You said in the video that you did something to the air filter or airbox correct? If so are you sure that the airbox is sealed correctly? The oil change didn't cause that so if the airbox is the only other thing you messed with then that is probably where your issue is.Comment
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Oh and just an FYI the idle speed adjustment knob is between the #2 and #3 carbs on the airbox side. The adjustment on the cable is just to adjust the slack out of the cable.Comment
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Wow! Thanks for the input guys! I will have to try those thing tomorrow and post back. The oil was 10w-40. The guy who owned it before me treated it extremely well- new cam head gasket, new regulator, couple of turn signals, and all fluids are good for another 25k miles (except for oil which he changed every 2k) and fixed the odometer. This guy is an engineer for IBM and a good family friend (although he only had the bike for 3 years)Comment
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Do a quick test just to get a baseline. That stall is unusual so just want to rule out electrical. Quick test is in my signature report all 6 voltages.Comment
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I seem to remember that you said in the video that the bike runs poorly (or changes speed) when you turn the handlebars..this may have lead to that issue...Originally posted by jbthomp View Post
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Out of curiosity, what kind of 10W-40? There are only two kinds that you could put in this bike:The oil was 10w-40
1) Motorcycle-specific oil (expensive)
2) Shell Rotella 15W-40 for diesel engines (standard or synthetic, cheap)
Any conventional motor oil for cars is right out. It's bad for the clutch and won't protect the transmission as well (from what I've read).Comment
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the 10w-40 was mobil1 full synthetic car oil (which I'm fine with bc it doesn't have energy conserving or special additives.) I took out the air filter again and noticed that I had forgotten to hook the close end of the filter! PROBLEM FIXED! So happy- I went for a rev happy test drive and it felt awesome again. Now Im just going to focus on resetting my idle correctly w/ the correct cable tension.Comment
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Fully synthetic 10w 40 car oil !!! check the spec of this oil, it needs to be for a wet clutch, you may find your clutch start slipping.Originally posted by Rochmn View PostComment
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