Valve Adjustment, Need Advice ASAP

[Guest]

I just pulled off my valve cover to discover some interesting things (to say the least). First, all of the buckets are filled with oil. Is this normal? See pictures below. Second, the bolts on the camshaft bearing covers are LOOSE as hell! Some looser than others. Obviously this isn't normal right? Does anyone have some advice for me on this? I don't want to leave this cover off any longer than it needs to be.

[srg]

That oil doesn't seem right at all.

Can you see any reason why the bolts are loose? They aren't stripped, are they? Maybe the PO forgot to tighten them The oil problem might be from the bolt problem.

[Morrison]

My question is how noisy was it? Where is the chain guide between the cams? What harm will happen if you leave the cover off untill its fixed?

[huntb]

The PO replaced the gasket because it was leaking. He also said he adjusted the cam chain tension. So now what? Clean out the oil and tighten the bolts?

[Steve]

The oil is not all that unusual.

Torque the head, torque the cam bearings.

Check cam timing.

Check valve clearances.

Adjust as necessary.

Unless it's raining on the bike or you are in the middle of a dust storm, having the cover off is not a problem.

.

[BigD_83]

Steve,

Do the bolts for the cam bearings have to be Loc-tited before torquing them back in?

[huntb]

The oil is not all that unusual.

Torque the head, torque the cam bearings.

Check cam timing.

Check valve clearances.

Adjust as necessary.

Unless it's raining on the bike or you are in the middle of a dust storm, having the cover off is not a problem.

.

Thanks, sounds good. Couple of questions though:

What do you mean by torque the head?

How would I check the timing?

[blowerbike]

never ever loctite the cam cap bolts..
90 inch lbs and all is good.

[Steve]

Do the bolts for the cam bearings have to be Loc-tited before torquing them back in?

Don't know if they are supposed to be Loc-tited, but I have never done it.

What do you mean by torque the head?

See those nuts along the walls, between the cams? Those are what hold the head and cylinders to the crankcase. Loosen ONE, re-torque it to 27 lb-ft, move to the next one. There is a specified order when starting from a loose head, not sure if that applies when loosening one at a time.

This is recommended on a regular basis (but probably seldom done), and is especially recommended based on the look of your cam bearing bolts.

How would I check the timing?

The process is outlined quite well in your service manual (you do have one, don't you?), but basically, you remove the ignition cover on the right end of the crank, line up the T1-4 mark, verify that the arrow next to the #1 on the exhaust cam is pointing to the edge of the head, then count 19 pins between the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam and the #3 arrow on the intake cam. Actually, I need to clarify that, the #1 pin is over the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam, the #19 pin is over the #3 arrow, leaving 17 pins between the marks.

.

[BigD_83]

You have a little more oil in there than I am am used to seeing but not too bad

Service Manual

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS650E_Service_Manual.pdf

[BigD_83]

never ever loctite the cam cap bolts..
90 inch lbs and all is good.

That is what I thought, but I have seen references to doing so, and I always wondered...

[huntb]

Don't know if they are supposed to be Loc-tited, but I have never done it.




See those nuts along the walls, between the cams? Those are what hold the head and cylinders to the crankcase. Loosen ONE, re-torque it to 27 lb-ft, move to the next one. There is a specified order when starting from a loose head, not sure if that applies when loosening one at a time.

This is recommended on a regular basis (but probably seldom done), and is especially recommended based on the look of your cam bearing bolts.

Edit: I didn't see the two in the middle on each side (makes 12 total) so I did all 12 of them. Also, yes I do have a service manual, guess I should have checked there first



The process is outlined quite well in your service manual (you do have one, don't you?), but basically, you remove the ignition cover on the right end of the crank, line up the T1-4 mark, verify that the arrow next to the #1 on the exhaust cam is pointing to the edge of the head, then count 19 pins between the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam and the #3 arrow on the intake cam. Actually, I need to clarify that, the #1 pin is over the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam, the #19 pin is over the #3 arrow, leaving 17 pins between the marks.

.

You're a savior. Should the bearing bolts be loose when I tighten the head? Also, are there 8 headbolts (4 in the middle, 4 on the outside) or justthe 4 in the middle?

[huntb]

OK so here is what I got for timing (see pics). The #1 arrow was not really pointing to the edge of the head but there were 17 pins between the #2 and #3 arrows. Does this look ok?

[Morrison]

IMO the exhaust cam is off. 1 arrow should be flush with head and 2 arrow up. And I believe you need 22 links between marks.

Edit.. for some reason I thougt yours was a 1k sooo not sure if whatever I said was right. :-)

[Nessism]

Crank is in the wrong spot. Rotate engine clockwise and line up the 1-4 T mark (to the left of current position).

Torque the cam caps then do the head, all nuts (think there is 16 or something like that. Be sure to back off the nut until it cracks loose before making it up and tightening. Some PB Blaster on the nuts before you do the head is greatly advised.