Marks in Clutch Basket Normal

[Guest]

My clutch has been dragging bad. To the point where my bike will stall when I shift to first at a standstill without throttle. I opened it up and the drive and driven plates look fine and measure fine but there are some marks inside the basket. Are these normal?





Any clues why the clutch is dragging?

[bonanzadave]

Could just be time for a new clutch cable. Do you know how to or have you ever adjusted the cable ? My basket got beat up (worse than yours) by a "performance" clutch kit. I files out and sanded the chatter marks as best I could.

[Daddyg]

Basket

Have you removed the basket to check the springs if it is a stock basket. I have had this happen before because of useage or wear. That's why its good to replace stock basket with high miles to a heavy duty performance basket. I Drag raced these motors for over 20 years and have had a couple stock baskets come apart. They get sloppy and back plate moves from wear. Just to be safe I would pull basket and check plate and pins. You can have the backing plate and pins welded up for better performance. They are ugly when the go so be careful.

[huntb]

Could just be time for a new clutch cable. Do you know how to or have you ever adjusted the cable ? My basket got beat up (worse than yours) by a "performance" clutch kit. I files out and sanded the chatter marks as best I could.

I bought a new clutch cable and adjusted it as far as it would go. Still dragged. Even tried adjusting the angle of the pivot arm and no luck there either. One thing I did notice though was that the plates were stuck together pretty good. I pulled them all apart and they're soaking in oil right now.

[huntb]

Have you removed the basket to check the springs if it is a stock basket. I have had this happen before because of useage or wear. That's why its good to replace stock basket with high miles to a heavy duty performance basket. I Drag raced these motors for over 20 years and have had a couple stock baskets come apart. They get sloppy and back plate moves from wear. Just to be safe I would pull basket and check plate and pins. You can have the backing plate and pins welded up for better performance. They are ugly when the go so be careful.

Why would I need to pull the basket to check springs? The only springs I see are item 15 which come out when I removed the cover and plates. The springs are still 1mm longer than the service limit. How would I check if they are stock or not? The bike only has 20k miles on it.



When the basket gets sloppy does that mean the clutch will drag more or slip more?

[bonanzadave]

Have you removed the basket to check the springs if it is a stock basket.

Why would I need to pull the basket to check springs?

Hes talking about the springs ON the basket

Check out this thread....

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=224071&highlight=clutch+springs

I think you may have already figured out your issue. Once the fiber plates are un-stuck you should be good-to-go.

[rapidray]

Pull the OUTER clutch basket & look at the springs in the BACK of the hub. If they are loose, time to rework the hub.
Ray.

[Chris G]

I bought a new clutch cable and adjusted it as far as it would go. Still dragged. Even tried adjusting the angle of the pivot arm and no luck there either. One thing I did notice though was that the plates were stuck together pretty good. I pulled them all apart and they're soaking in oil right now.

Have you cleaned it up? because it looks like there's no signs oil anywhere did you check the metal plates for distortion, one of mine recently was way out of true.

[huntb]

Have you cleaned it up? because it looks like there's no signs oil anywhere did you check the metal plates for distortion, one of mine recently was way out of true.

No cleaning at all. Should it look more oily than that? I didn't even drain it, it's just sitting on the side stand. I will check the plates for distortion on a granite slab at work next week but visually they look good.

[rwnielsen]

This is the basket I took out of my 1100e. If you look closely, one of the springs is broken into 2 pieces (10 o'clock) and the rest are loose.

[Chris G]

Yep no need to drain when looking at the clutch housing, just put on the side stand, assume you've still got oil in the bottom left side even on the stand?
Was there evidence of oil on all the plates when you removed them, also check the little brass jet at the top of the cover you've removed mine was partially blocked last time I checked it.

[huntb]

Yep no need to drain when looking at the clutch housing, just put on the side stand, assume you've still got oil in the bottom left side even on the stand?
Was there evidence of oil on all the plates when you removed them, also check the little brass jet at the top of the cover you've removed mine was partially blocked last time I checked it.

Yes there is oil in the bottom left side, I just changed the oil last week. As for the plates, they all had oil on them except for the far back fiber plate was pretty dry. Hopefully giving them a good soak will loosen things up. I don't know the last time this bike was running properly. I've been working on it for almost a month now. Also, I'll check that brass jet, thanks

[huntb]

What size is the clutch nut on the 650? I want to pull the basket to file down the marks. The clutch still drags and is damn hard to shift.

Oh and how to I hold the basket still while turning the nut? Also, it's not left handed is it?

[lemonshindig]

What size is the clutch nut on the 650? I want to pull the basket to file down the marks. The clutch still drags and is damn hard to shift.

Oh and how to I hold the basket still while turning the nut? Also, it's not left handed is it?

Put it in gear and lock up the rear wheel.

I don't believe the threads are left handed. Right handed, if memory serves.

[huntb]

Put it in gear and lock up the rear wheel.

I don't believe the threads are left handed. Right handed, if memory serves.

And size? I think I remember reading 32mm somewhere