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Weak cylinder
Just got done replacing intake boots, sealing airbox and exhaust, valve adjustment, reset timing, new spark plug boots and wires. Started right up after a month of sitting, but #2 is running weak. Exhaust gets hot( not sure if it gets as hot as the others or not.) but when pullng boots there is barely any ( if any) difference on how the motor runs. When shimming valves #2 was really tight on ex side...valve not burnt, bent or chipped. Was 5 sizes to big of shim on #2 ex . All others had clearence but barely. Just looking for some input for things to look at when I get off work. ThanksTags: None
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kjsamm
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ShadowFocus603
Did you completely strip and rebuild carbs with fresh o rings? Strip and dip or sonic cleaned? Not just a spray and pray? That's going to be the first question the grumpy old men (lol) are going to ask you. Are the valves all in spec now?
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kjsamm
I did a complete cleaning years ago, and do quick cleanings every month. Valves are in spec now. Do i really nees to tear down the carbs again? I keep them pretty clean. But I suppose it wouldn't hurt to strip them again. Just really dont want too, since i just got bike put back together.
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I'd check the plugs and the petcock before I stripped the carbs
If the #2 plug is significantly richer, a leaky petcock may be your problem, it's leaking gas down the vacuum line into the carb1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 44506
- Brooksville Fl.
Originally posted by Big T View PostI'd check the plugs and the petcock before I stripped the carbs
If the #2 plug is significantly richer, a leaky petcock may be your problem, it's leaking gas down the vacuum line into the carbKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.
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Originally posted by kjsamm View PostWhen shimming valves #2 was really tight on ex side...valve not burnt, bent or chipped.
How do you know the valves are not burnt?
Compression check?
And how much has the engine been run lately?
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kjsamm
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostHow did you synchronise the carbs?
How do you know the valves are not burnt?
Compression check?
And how much has the engine been run lately?
I looked at them
no compression check yet, but with that valve not being able to seat for so long I wouldn't doubt that there is a lot of carbon build up still stopping it from seating properly giving me little to no compression.
Bike has only been run for 5-10 min since i got it all put back together.
petcock is a new from a few years ago.
Just started bike for a min (as its late i didn't run it too long) checked spark at #2 and its strong. In the little bit in ran exhaust for #'s 1,3 and 4 are warm #2 is cold.
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kjsamm
Originally posted by Big T View PostI'd check the plugs and the petcock before I stripped the carbs
If the #2 plug is significantly richer, a leaky petcock may be your problem, it's leaking gas down the vacuum line into the carb
If it were leaking gas down vacuum line wouldn't #2 still fire? It has all it needs to fire...air, fuel (i'm guessing, if it was leaking) and spark.Last edited by Guest; 07-20-2014, 01:22 AM.
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kjsamm
Not a a petcock issue. After starting the bike and running for a min, (#2 still dead) I pulled off the vacuum hose to petcock and it was dry, as was the nipple it attaches to. Also I would think that if that were leaking even the slightest I would have noticed, as the tank had been sitting on a wooden bench for the past 6 weeks.
New thought, I am unsure at the moment but I believe that #2 does eventually fire. As the plug was never wet and read as a rich cylinder condition.Last edited by Guest; 07-20-2014, 02:49 AM.
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Originally posted by kjsamm View PostCarbs are bench synced
I looked at them
Bench synch isn't enough, could be that cylinder isn't doing much because it's out of synch.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35619
- Torrance, CA
If #2 exhaust valve needed a shim 5 steps thinner than before, there is a very good chance it's burned.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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kjsamm
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kjsamm
She lives, just took awhile for carbon to burn off that valve. But #2 cylinder is firing now.
Runs pretty good except I still have a slight hanging throttle after slow down when coming to a stop. Air leaks are fixed, what else could it be?
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Originally posted by kjsamm View PostShe lives, just took awhile for carbon to burn off that valve. But #2 cylinder is firing now.
Runs pretty good except I still have a slight hanging throttle after slow down when coming to a stop. Air leaks are fixed, what else could it be?1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
83 gs750ed- first new purchase
85 EX500- vintage track weapon
1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
“Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing
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