Clatter/chatter when warm

[Guest]

Good news is that I finally got my bike running after a month! However, I've ridden it a couple of times now and once the bike is warm it gets VERY clattery. I thought it was an exhaust leak because I saw exhaust in front of my face last night and tightened the header bolts. I replaced the gaskets two weeks ago so I know it's not bad gaskets. I also readjusted the cam tensioner within the last couple of weeks. It sounds absolutely terrible. Does anyone know what this is from? Also, this isn't just at idle, it is at all speeds/RPMs

- Ben

[tom203]

......"I also readjusted the cam tensioner within the last couple of weeks. It sounds absolutely terrible. Does anyone know what this is from? Also, this isn't just at idle, "

Humor us- what procedure did you use to readjust cam chain tensioner ? Please stop running it until you find problem. If cam chain jumps sprockets, bad news arrives ASAP!

[huntb]

The procedure Steve gave me. Same one in the manual I believe.

I'm also wondering if it's my drive chain. I haven't had time to clean or inspect it and sprockets and I don't remember if the noise followed speed or rpm

[tom203]

So after resetting plunger and reinstalling tensioner in engine,you backed the set screw off 1/4 turn and tightened locknut on set screw making sure that set screw stayed backed off from plunger?

[huntb]

I think I need to bump this one up again. Bike sounds beautiful until warm and then below 4-5k rpm the clatter is there. I've checked the set screw tom203 and it was backed off 1/4 turn.

The other thing I notice is that it goes away when I'm not moving and as soon as I start to ride away from a stop it comes back. So to summarize:

- ONLY when the bike is warmed up

- Only below 4-5k rpm and not at idle

- Valves had been adjusted and are in spec

- Cam chain tensioner installed properly (unless it is mechanically not functioning properly but it seemed fine when I had it out)

- Sounds like marbles under the cam cover, but who knows, maybe that's not where its coming from. Screwdriver to ear check doesn't work very well

[Uncamitzi]

How's your oil level? Mine gets a bit clattery if it's down a little.

[Jeepfreak81]

I wouldn't run it till you get it sorted out. I had a similar problem with my DRZ400 years ago and dropped a valve which got real expensive real fast. $1000 and 2 months of me rebuilding after work during the week it was finally running tip top again. Checked your valve clearances lately? Might be good to pull your valve cover and take a peek at that cam chain anyway.

[huntb]

How's your oil level? Mine gets a bit clattery if it's down a little.

Just under the "F" line. Looks good.

I wouldn't run it till you get it sorted out. I had a similar problem with my DRZ400 years ago and dropped a valve which got real expensive real fast. $1000 and 2 months of me rebuilding after work during the week it was finally running tip top again. Checked your valve clearances lately? Might be good to pull your valve cover and take a peek at that cam chain anyway.

Valve clearances were checked two weeks ago. 6 if 8 were tight and I've got them all in spec now

[huntb]

Alright, I just checked valve clearances again and 6 of 8 are now loose (> 0.4"). The engine is still a little warm from riding today, I probably shut it off an hour to an hour and a half ago. Is it normal for the valves to be loose when warm? I'll check again when it totally cools off but this has me slightly worried. How could they have been in spec a couple weeks ago and now they are loose?

[Griffin]

Alright, I just checked valve clearances again and 6 of 8 are now loose (> 0.4"). The engine is still a little warm from riding today, I probably shut it off an hour to an hour and a half ago. Is it normal for the valves to be loose when warm? I'll check again when it totally cools off but this has me slightly worried. How could they have been in spec a couple weeks ago and now they are loose?

The spec calls for clearances to be 0.0012"- 0.0031" (0.03 - 0.08mm). What you posted makes no sense.

I generally set all mine on the upper side of the spec, or a little beyond it (0.07-0.10mm) and have never had an issue doing so. Also, the engine has to be stone cold for your measurements to have any value. Let it sit overnight and measure them, looking for the above mentioned clearances.

[huntb]

Sorry... I meant 0.004

We build CNC grinding machines at work that have tolerances around 0.00005" so to me .001" sounds like 0.1". I should be better with decimals. Alas... electrical engineers.

I'll check tomorrow after work

[Mercaholic]

I had a '83 GS1100E that was really noisy when warm due to a worn clutch basket. On a cold start, no noise at all.

[huntb]

I had a '83 GS1100E that was really noisy when warm due to a worn clutch basket. On a cold start, no noise at all.

Are we talking the springs in the back of the basket?

[jona]

Worn out, loose clutch hub nut?

[huntb]

Just used basscliffs trick to tighten the clutch hub springs. Clutch nut seems fine. Very tight when I removed it. The noise is still there. I've been observing it more though and the clatter only comes at cruising speeds starting about about 2.5-3k rpm and going away at about 4.5-5.5k rpm but it is very loud and sounds like something is going to fall apart. Other than those engine speeds, the noise is non-existent. I noticed that a few of the valves have loosened up since I've done the adjustment so I guess another valve adjustment is in order. I'm starting to really wonder what this could be. I also raised the jet needles today by about .05" which seems to have given it more mid range power. I thought it could have been detonating but no. Seems like I've tried almost everything. Bike runs VERY strong.