Clatter/chatter when warm

[earlfor]

Just used basscliffs trick to tighten the clutch hub springs. Clutch nut seems fine. Very tight when I removed it. The noise is still there. I've been observing it more though and the clatter only comes at cruising speeds starting about about 2.5-3k rpm and going away at about 4.5-5.5k rpm but it is very loud and sounds like something is going to fall apart. Other than those engine speeds, the noise is non-existent. I noticed that a few of the valves have loosened up since I've done the adjustment so I guess another valve adjustment is in order. I'm starting to really wonder what this could be. I also raised the jet needles today by about .05" which seems to have given it more mid range power. I thought it could have been detonating but no. Seems like I've tried almost everything. Bike runs VERY

strong.

Are you certain the noise is coming from the right side (clutch side)? Instead of listening, have you tried putting your hands on both sides of the engine? I've found a lot of times that my ears deceive me as to where a noise is coming from, but my hands can feel it and never lie. I'm thinking loose starter clutch or broken starter clutch set screws (left side behind the stator). That will cause a horrible clanking at the rpm's you're observing and also sometimes on start up.
It can make a horrible noise, clank, thump, clank that is so loud it seems like it's everywhere on the lower engine case.

[huntb]

If I honestly had to pinpoint it I would say upper engine but it's really everywhere. I'm going to adjust the valves again tonight and pull the cover over the flywheel so see if I can see broken or loose screws. I'm taking it into work now because there are some motorcycle gurus there I want to listen to the noise. Hopefully it doesn't hurt to drive it one last time before I pull it apart.

[earlfor]

If I honestly had to pinpoint it I would say upper engine but it's really everywhere. I'm going to adjust the valves again tonight and pull the cover over the flywheel so see if I can see broken or loose screws. I'm taking it into work now because there are some motorcycle gurus there I want to listen to the noise. Hopefully it doesn't hurt to drive it one last time before I pull it apart.

The set screws I was talking about in the starter clutch are on the left side of the engine. The stator is mounted on the crankshaft end and between the stator and the engine case is the starter clutch. You can not see the clutch without removing the stator and to remove the stator, you will need a special tool. Do NOT use a gear puller and dont even think about banging on a stator with a hammer.

To adjust valves, the engine can not be run for the previous 24 hours. It must be absolutely cold.

Check for a loose cam cap when you check the valve clearances. I had one work loose some years ago and it made a hell of a racket.

[huntb]

I pulled off the stator cover only to realize the the M16 bolt I had was M16x2.0 instead of M16x1.5 (I'm not buying a special tool when I can get an M16 bolt, a washer and a hunk of steel tubing to use as a slide hammer) but I think I may have pinpointed it to the cam chain tensioner. I started hearing the noise as I was revving the engine. When I was using my screwdriver stethoscope I saw that the chain tensioner handle was going crazy so I tightened it and reset the set screw and the noise was gone. After riding to work today though the noise came back. I'm thinking about resetting the chain tensioner and locking the set screw to keep it from backing out but what would cause this?

[terrylee]

Don't tighten the set screw all the way in and lock it if that's what you meant! That could do some real damage. I would take the tensioner off and take a look at piston and spring and make sure everything is moving smoothly. You need to reset the tensioner too, just follow the manual and reinstall properly. terrylee

[earlfor]

My best guess is the cam chain tensioner is acting up because it was installed incorrectly. When removing the tensioner, keep in mind the tensioner applies tension on the rear run of the cam chain. First take off the right engine cover and with a 19mm wrench, rotate the engine clockwise until you feel compression resistance. This will give you tension on the front run of the cam chain and the rear run will be slack. The tensioner should be removed and installed with the engine in this condition. Next, lock the set screw down on the tensioner plunger. This keeps the plunger from possibly springing out and going into the engine. Now remove the mounting bolts on the tensioner and remove it. Next, unlock the tensioner plunger set screw to allow the tensioner to move back and forth. If it moves freely and smoothly with good spring pressure, the tensioner is fine. If it doesn't move freely, clean it up until it does. Once its OK, press the plunger into the tensioner housing with your hand and lock it down with the set screw in the fully retracted position. Reinstall the tensioner on the engine. Turn the set screw counterclockwise to unlock the tensioner so it will spring in to put pressure on the rear/slack run of the cam chain. back the tensioner screw out a turn or two so there is NO contact between the set screw and the plunger. Lock the set screw in the no contact position with the jam nut. The spring maintains the proper adjustment automatically. The most common mistake is having the engine in the wrong position and/or locking the plunger down.

[huntb]

My best guess is the cam chain tensioner is acting up because it was installed incorrectly. When removing the tensioner, keep in mind the tensioner applies tension on the rear run of the cam chain. First take off the right engine cover and with a 19mm wrench, rotate the engine clockwise until you feel compression resistance. This will give you tension on the front run of the cam chain and the rear run will be slack. The tensioner should be removed and installed with the engine in this condition. Next, lock the set screw down on the tensioner plunger. This keeps the plunger from possibly springing out and going into the engine. Now remove the mounting bolts on the tensioner and remove it. Next, unlock the tensioner plunger set screw to allow the tensioner to move back and forth. If it moves freely and smoothly with good spring pressure, the tensioner is fine. If it doesn't move freely, clean it up until it does. Once its OK, press the plunger into the tensioner housing with your hand and lock it down with the set screw in the fully retracted position. Reinstall the tensioner on the engine. Turn the set screw counterclockwise to unlock the tensioner so it will spring in to put pressure on the rear/slack run of the cam chain. back the tensioner screw out a turn or two so there is NO contact between the set screw and the plunger. Lock the set screw in the no contact position with the jam nut. The spring maintains the proper adjustment automatically. The most common mistake is having the engine in the wrong position and/or locking the plunger down.

This is exactly what I did but I only loosened the set screw 1/4 - 1/2 of a turn because that was what I had read previously. What would it hurt to leave the lock screw tightened after the plunger was released?

[huntb]

Just want to bump this. What is the problem if I manually set the tension when the engine is warm?

[earlfor]

This is exactly what I did but I only loosened the set screw 1/4 - 1/2 of a turn because that was what I had read previously. What would it hurt to leave the lock screw tightened after the plunger was released?

You DO tighten the lock screw after the plunger is released. The lock screw is supposed to be turned out until it is NOT in contact with the plunger and locked down using the jam nut locking the screw only (not the plunger) in the NON contact setting. Do not lock the plunger in position, only lock the screw in the turned out position.

[Mercaholic]

Are we talking the springs in the back of the basket?

No, the basket's fingers were grooved from the steel plates.

[huntb]

I just wanted to follow this up... I took apart the cam chain tensioner handle and preloaded the spring more and put it back together and reset the plunger AND I even remembered to back out the set screw 1/4-1/2 turn and since then, the noise is gone. Thanks all

[earlfor]

I just wanted to follow this up... I took apart the cam chain tensioner handle and preloaded the spring more and put it back together and reset the plunger AND I even remembered to back out the set screw 1/4-1/2 turn and since then, the noise is gone. Thanks all

Hot diggety dog!! LOL Cheers!