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Engine sezied Please help!

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    #16
    OK Grand Master. Removed the cams and it turned by hand. Maybe the penetration oil helped. now what the hell do I do.
    HOw does one know if you have recoverd all the chain slack.

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      #17
      Originally posted by c&c View Post
      OK Grand Master. Removed the cams and it turned by hand. Maybe the penetration oil helped. now what the hell do I do.
      HOw does one know if you have recoverd all the chain slack.
      Now reinstall the cams per the service manual instruction. Once that's done, wind up the cam chain tensioner and push in the plunger, set the lock screw, install the tensioner, release the lock screw 1/2 turn, then tighten the nut again. Hopefully you didn't bend any valves by trying to rotate the engine with the tensioner removed. Please tell us you didn't use the starter button to spin the engine over with the tensioner out. If you did, you bent valves.
      Last edited by Nessism; 08-04-2014, 05:10 PM.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        Please tell us you didn't use the starter button to spin the engine over with the tensioner out. If you did, you bent valves.
        OK I did not. What I did was hit the start and did a quick jolt and moved less then 5 degre.
        Then removed the cams, I got a 3ed hand to turn the engine counter clock using the stator hub thing nut to get all the slack possible and all turns without ticks dings or squeeks.

        Any way I`ll put everything back together and see. I highly doute I bent valves. Cross my fingers toes and eyes.

        just to make sure, the engien turns, looking at the ignition timing, clock wise right?

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          #19
          This is hilarious. Got a service manual yet?
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #20
            Correct, the engine turns clockwise when viewed from the ignition side

            Tom made a good point (in his usual way)

            Are you following any of the tutorials or the FSM when you work on your bike?
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

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              #21
              Yes I have a manual. The PO gave it to me.

              Who is Tom?

              What is FMS?
              I followed the Carb Rebuild.

              Do you guys put blue loctit on the cam retainer bolts?
              There seams to be some on the threads already which I`m removing right now.

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                #22
                No loctite on those bolts. When questions like this come up don't post here, look in the factory Suzuki service manual (FSM) (don't trust just anyone). If you don't have one, get a copy from Basscliff's website.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #23
                  I looked at bassclif`s site, would it be the GS1100 '80-'83 T,LT,EX,SZ,EZ,SD,ED,ESD?
                  I do not see one that is explicitly made for my GS1100E.

                  Never mind found it!


                  I have this one from the PO: http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/503
                  Last edited by Guest; 08-04-2014, 10:12 PM.

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                    #24
                    It says to put some molybdmun lube on the journal. I do not have any. Is there an alternative?

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                      #25
                      ~~~~~~oil~~~~~~

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                        #26
                        ~~~~~~ ok ~~~~~~

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                          ~~~~~~oil~~~~~~
                          Yes, too little too late.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                            Now reinstall the cams per the service manual instruction. Once that's done, wind up the cam chain tensioner and push in the plunger, set the lock screw, install the tensioner, release the lock screw 1/2 turn, then tighten the nut again. Hopefully you didn't bend any valves by trying to rotate the engine with the tensioner removed. Please tell us you didn't use the starter button to spin the engine over with the tensioner out. If you did, you bent valves.
                            The engine turns freely with the cams removed. Probably because all the vales are in the closed position.
                            I installed the cams, installed the tensioner according to the instructions. Turned the engine and I heard the squeak of metal against metal.
                            The same squeak just before it stopped at idle.
                            This must mean that one or more valves are bent?
                            Do I need to change all the valves or just the ones that are bent.?
                            I would have to change the bent valves and the guides?
                            Or maybe get the head from a better performing one? 1985 GS1100?

                            Would a 1981 GS750 head work as a direct swap?

                            I`m doing a complete tear down this winter. It`s bee planed for a long time now. I would like to do the minimum to get it going for the rest of the season.

                            Note to future self : Dont you ever ever fkn forget the chain tensioner!
                            Last edited by Guest; 08-05-2014, 10:43 AM.

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                              #29
                              You might want to break out the feeler gauges and check valve adjustment clearance. If some of the clearances are sky high now that's a clear sign of bent valves. Assuming that's the case, you can most likely get away with just changing out the valves that are bent. It shouldn't be difficult to find some good used valves if you post in the Parts Wanted forum since many of the hot rod guys go to oversize valves.
                              Ed

                              To measure is to know.

                              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Not sure if you can do this because I have not seen it myself but when I check for bent valves on a vehicle I always turn them upside down and fill each combustion chamber with a solvent and leave it set. If the valves are not seating obviously you will leak the solvent out. I do this because I do not want to trust my eyes.

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