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Engine sezied Please help!

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    #31
    I did not have any feeler gauges so I decided to remove the head. Besides deduction leads to the head. When I remove the cams again it turned freely and when I removed the head it turned way to easy.

    There are no signs of valves hitting the cylinders. It would be easy to spot since the the ample carbon build up.
    Could it be that the valves are bent but there are no visible sings?

    I put back the cams and rotated them by hand. The exhaust cam turn evenly with the same force needed when the lobe hits the vaves to push them down.
    The intake on the other hand, 3 require the same force but one needs more force to push it down and does not come back up with the same energy.

    Should I remove all valves and verify them one by one?
    I`ll try the leak test on the particular one. and report back.

    While I`m at it, what is the best way to remove the carbon build up?
    My cylinder compression was somthing like 120 - 90 - 110 - 95. Since it`s already opened should I hone the cylinder walls and change the rings?
    Last edited by Guest; 08-05-2014, 02:46 PM.

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      #32
      Yes on the hone (use a bottle brush type hone) and new rings. New valve stem seals too. It should be easy enough to tell if you have bent valves by spinning them in the guide and looking for wobble. Make sure to get OEM Suzuki gaskets too, not aftermarket, unless you like to gamble on leakage.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #33
        I am doubting my self. I redid the test, manually turning the cams, I was turning the inlet cam the wrong way, and now they all act the same. nice spring back.

        It has to be the valves right? When I remove the cams the first time, thus all valves where in the closed position, and it turned freely then put back the cams and tensioner and the squeek comes back then jams, points to the valve right? I`m freeking out here! Maybe it`s the cam tensioner putting tension where it`s not suppose to and is some how jamming?

        You are saying to twist the valves, with them still installed or do I remove them?

        I need to clear my head!

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          #34
          I rechecked the crank sprocket and it has all it`s teeths.
          fkit! I`m going to redo all the valves.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by c&c View Post
            I looked at bassclif`s site, would it be the GS1100 '80-'83 T,LT,EX,SZ,EZ,SD,ED,ESD?
            I do not see one that is explicitly made for my GS1100E.

            Never mind found it!


            I have this one from the PO: http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/503
            your 1981 gs1100e is coded as gs1100ex. Is it were 1982 it would be gs1100ez, 1983 is ed.

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              #36
              what do your cam journals look like?
              If you galled the cam journals,when you put chain tension on the cam,it may be trying to seize up there.
              Check for any galling,then maybe plastigage them,and see what your clearance is.

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                #37
                What size sledge hammer are you using? 5 or 10 lbs? Follow the clymer recommendation.

                Comment


                  #38
                  After some sleep and a clear head the only way to eliminate the valves from the equation is to test them one by one. It's a pain in the ass, especial when I'd prefer riding my bike, but it has to be done. I will check to see if some are bent and replace as needed, I will also do the leak test and fix as necessary.
                  I will report back on the this week end.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    I'v just finished removing all the valves and none are bent.
                    But please take a look at the picture, exhaust side, it's got carbon/heat signs.
                    Could this be the cause of my valve cover gasket foes. If I kept the engine at low rpm while riding all was ok and when I rev'd it it would start leaking like crazy. No Blue Smoke from the pipes.
                    I will clean all the carbon deposit then make a leak test and lap as needed.
                    What else should I do, change the seals? Guides?


                    Back it the engine seizing . I can't figure it out. With the head removed the pistons move freely. Crank case sprocket has all it's teeth. The valve are not bent, valve gaps where ok, cam's /sprocket are ok. I could turn the engine 3 times before it jamed. No marks of valves hitting the piston. Chain tensioner was installed correctly and working perfectly.

                    I'm stumped! And more ideas?


                    DSC_0099.jpg
                    Last edited by Guest; 08-10-2014, 12:50 PM.

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                      #40
                      Started to clean the valves and noticed this scuff/gouge mark on one valve.
                      It on the top part of the stem.
                      100_1930.jpg

                      I think this is what prevented my engine from turning after the 3ed crank turn.
                      I put it back in it's guide and there is resistance. Looking at the scuff profile there is a hair line ridge.
                      The mark indicates it happened on its way back up.
                      There seems to be a micro bend in the stem. Checked again and there is no bend.

                      So I need a new valve guid and seal?
                      I tried another valve in the guide and there is no resistance all is smooth.

                      What do you think?
                      Last edited by Guest; 08-10-2014, 05:11 PM.

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                        #41
                        Is this the valve that wasn't coming back up cleanly earlier?
                        97 R1100R
                        Previous
                        80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by c&c View Post
                          I'v just finished removing all the valves and none are bent.
                          But please take a look at the picture, exhaust side, it's got carbon/heat signs.
                          Could this be the cause of my valve cover gasket foes. If I kept the engine at low rpm while riding all was ok and when I rev'd it it would start leaking like crazy. No Blue Smoke from the pipes.
                          I will clean all the carbon deposit then make a leak test and lap as needed.
                          What else should I do, change the seals? Guides?


                          Back it the engine seizing . I can't figure it out. With the head removed the pistons move freely. Crank case sprocket has all it's teeth. The valve are not bent, valve gaps where ok, cam's /sprocket are ok. I could turn the engine 3 times before it jamed. No marks of valves hitting the piston. Chain tensioner was installed correctly and working perfectly.

                          I'm stumped! And more ideas?


                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]35822[/ATTACH]
                          When you say no valves are bent how did you determine that, and when you say you could turn the engine three times, is that three complete revolutions of the crank?
                          sigpic

                          Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by Brendan W View Post
                            Is this the valve that wasn't coming back up cleanly earlier?
                            - I thought it was cylinder 1 but turned out it was cylinder 4, they both go up and down at the same time.

                            Originally posted by tatu View Post
                            When you say no valves are bent how did you determine that, and when you say you could turn the engine three times, is that three complete revolutions of the crank?
                            - I removed all of them and inspected them. I taped the end and all practically fell off except for the gouged one
                            - Yes 3 complete rotation then it jam'd on the 4th
                            Last edited by Guest; 08-10-2014, 05:00 PM.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Just looking at them is not enough, if it is a vlv likely it's only one, the quick way to see if a vlv's bent is to roll it on a flat surface, you will see instantly if its bent.
                              sigpic

                              Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by tatu View Post
                                Just looking at them is not enough, if it is a vlv likely it's only one, the quick way to see if a vlv's bent is to roll it on a flat surface, you will see instantly if its bent.
                                Did it and they are not bent. Even the one with the gouge is not bent.

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