Overheating problem?

[claygs750e]

Spark plug chop? Are you referring to this procedure? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...plug_chop.html

Would I do the highest RPM procedure first, then move on to the plug chop? I've not even heard of this before. Is this procedure the same for the CV carbs as well? Do I need to put new plugs in before starting to know my baseline?When looking at the color of the plugs what am I looking at, the insulator?

[mrbill5491]

Oh god what did I start.

Yeah Clay just follow the directions you found, this is a simple procedure. New plugs are fine

[chef1366]

Did you replace the intake boots? Did you check them for cracks? Check the engine side. I bet they are toast.

[49er]

Did you replace the intake boots? Did you check them for cracks? Check the engine side. I bet they are toast.

Agree.........high idle or erratic rpms at and just above idle signal leanness, usually through air leaks in the induction system. Tuners often misinterpret the signs when plug chopping, so they enrich the pilot circuit only to cause poor transitioning onto the needle.

[wymple]

Or it could be that your starter works fine cold, and after getting hot from the normal engine heat, pukes. Seen it on cars quite a lot over the years.

[claygs750e]

I checked the intake boots and they are the rubber kind with no o-ring and they look ok and no cracks. So I drove to work this morning and when I first started with the choke I let it warm up for a few mins and if I didn't keep any throttle on it it would idle about 500 rpms and die. That may be due to it not being warmed up all the way because once I got going on the road the idle held steady at 2krpm. I've not had the chance to do the highest idle or chop method yet so hopefully something is out of spec.

[mrbill5491]

I checked the intake boots and they are the rubber kind with no o-ring and they look ok and no cracks. So I drove to work this morning and when I first started with the choke I let it warm up for a few mins and if I didn't keep any throttle on it it would idle about 500 rpms and die. That may be due to it not being warmed up all the way because once I got going on the road the idle held steady at 2krpm. I've not had the chance to do the highest idle or chop method yet so hopefully something is out of spec.

Have you tried turning up the idle via the idle adjustment knob/screw?

[claygs750e]

If I turn the idle knob it either goes to around 2 or under 1 and almost dies. I barely even move the knob and it changes the idle about 1krpm

[claygs750e]

One thing I just thought of that I'm not sure would contribute to the high idle is a possible vacuum leak. I mentioned a hissing sound coming from the engine, could it be coming from the header pipes going into the engine? The reason I say this is when I removed the stock pipes there were these half moon shaped pieces that went into the engine where the header pipes bolt on. Well these pieces I did not put back on because they would not fit. I also have a new set up crush gaskets for inside that I've not installed yet so they still have the 30 yr old gaskets inside. Could I be hearing that hissing sound from the seal where the pipes go into the engine? Could this be a vacuum leak that could be causing the issue?

[ericeder141]

now that's its winter (I know it sucks to say) I'm going to lay off riding and get back to wrenching. I was trying to diagnose the original problem of when bike gets hot it starts to smoke and then it is also hard to restart... kind of like stopping for gas killing the motor and the restarting... the bike cranks but it felt like weak spark or the motor was locking up... So I played around did some research and it lead to me believe it was the coils, I figured as I rode the bike the coils got hot broke down and caused the bike to run hot and therefore be hard to start when hot... Not the case... so I am now stumped again, rode bike today bike got hot stopped at red lights and stopped signs and saw smoke coming out of the exhaust and also some steam from vent hose in the head. Did a valve check and they were all in tolerance... Checked the plugs and they look perfect... its a white smoke for the most part its not horrible but its annoying and the hard starting when hot is what I am really concerned with... any suggestions?? sorry for writing a story

I am thinking its a valve seal at this point or maybe a worn out valve letting oil through, maybe a head gasket??

[ozman]

Oil coolers are not recommended on this bike. It has friction bearings on the crank rather then roller bearings. An oil cooler could rob enough oil pressure to cause some serious damage.

Smoke coming from the vent tube is telling me you are getting alot of blow back from the cylinder(s) like bad/weak rings or something. Usually with bad/weak rings you would see some blue smoke out the pipes. Burnt gasses are getting by the rings into the crankcase then vent out at the tube in the valve cover. Just like the breather systems on old vehicles before the onset of PVC systems.

i would dispute the line that a oil cooler would rob oil pressure
if correctly installed it is part of a closed loop therefore no reduction in oil pressure, the oil just takes a longer passage via the oil cooler to get to the intended location

ozman

[Grimly]

now that's its winter (I know it sucks to say) I'm going to lay off riding and get back to wrenching. I was trying to diagnose the original problem of when bike gets hot it starts to smoke and then it is also hard to restart... kind of like stopping for gas killing the motor and the restarting... the bike cranks but it felt like weak spark or the motor was locking up... So I played around did some research and it lead to me believe it was the coils, I figured as I rode the bike the coils got hot broke down and caused the bike to run hot and therefore be hard to start when hot... Not the case... so I am now stumped again, rode bike today bike got hot stopped at red lights and stopped signs and saw smoke coming out of the exhaust and also some steam from vent hose in the head. Did a valve check and they were all in tolerance... Checked the plugs and they look perfect... its a white smoke for the most part its not horrible but its annoying and the hard starting when hot is what I am really concerned with... any suggestions?? sorry for writing a story

I am thinking its a valve seal at this point or maybe a worn out valve letting oil through, maybe a head gasket??

Worn rings and/or bores - you need a compression check.

[mrbill5491]

i would dispute the line that a oil cooler would rob oil pressure
if correctly installed it is part of a closed loop therefore no reduction in oil pressure, the oil just takes a longer passage via the oil cooler to get to the intended location

ozman

Just repeating what I read from Suzuki years ago. They did not recommend an oil cooler for the friction bearing bikes.

[ericeder141]

Worn rings and/or bores - you need a compression check.

Compression check showed 160 on every cylinder, in going to take it down a size on the jets it could be running to rich which would cause the motor to overheat and smoke. Right now I have a 130 main I knocked it down to a 124 and it seems like it ran cooler and smoked less I am going to try 120s next to see if it helps.

[stetracer]

Compression check showed 160 on every cylinder, in going to take it down a size on the jets it could be running to rich which would cause the motor to overheat and smoke. Right now I have a 130 main I knocked it down to a 124 and it seems like it ran cooler and smoked less I am going to try 120s next to see if it helps.

You have that backwards a lean motor will run hotter
if your timing is to far advanced it will run hotter and be harder to start once warmed up.