Clutch cable broke again

[nejeff]

Broke my fourth clutch cable. My clutch is tough to pull for unknown reasons so maybe that contributes to it but just put on the fourth in about 2 years. One was on the bike, then I put on a used one, last two were Motion Pro's. Next order I make will include an oem Suzuki cable I guess. PITA !

[Brendan W]

Are heavy duty springs fitted to the clutch?

[BigD_83]

Is the cable breaking in the same place every time? Is it in the middle, or at one of the ends?

Do you have the cable routed in a non-stock configuration, in a way that would change the angle at the lever on the engine end?

[nejeff]

Are heavy duty springs fitted to the clutch?

Quite possibly. History is unsubstantiated by hard evidence but it is believed to have a big bore kit in it so probably not a leap to think it has HD springs in the clutch. The PO to the PO took very good care of this baby and did a lot of work and used it for a lot of two up, interstate travel and had it outfitted as a tourer when I got it

[nejeff]

Is the cable breaking in the same place every time? Is it in the middle, or at one of the ends?

Do you have the cable routed in a non-stock configuration, in a way that would change the angle at the lever on the engine end?

It breaks at the lever every time. Nothing sharp cutting it up, factory lever. It has been outside the frame as it goes upward since I got the bike and it wore a spot on the frame where the tank rubbed it tight against. This time I routed it inside. Not sure which is actually correct.

[Brendan W]

It breaks at the lever every time. Nothing sharp cutting it up, factory lever. It has been outside the frame as it goes upward since I got the bike and it wore a spot on the frame where the tank rubbed it tight against. This time I routed it inside. Not sure which is actually correct.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ Have a look here for the manual. Near the back of each model section it shows the routing for cables. The lever arm on the clutch should be at right angles to the cable for minimum effort. Small deviations won't count for much but 30 degrees off would put the required pull up by 30% approx.

[mrbill5491]

Pull the clutch cover and take out the clutch springs and order some new ones. OEM or the EBC's springs. I had once bought some aftermarket springs from a friend of mine and he didn't tell me they were the Barnett HD springs. You had to have a gorilla grip to work these suckers, pretty sure that is what messed up two clutch cables, a stock one and a crappy Motion Pro cable (not near the cable the OEM one is). I decided to go with the EBC HD springs, what a pleasant surprise they were. No where near as strong as the Barnett springs, though EBCs are a tad stiffer (12-15%) then OEM but better.

[koolaid_kid]

Cables tend to break at the end, where the barrel connects to the stranded cable itself. One of the twisted wire strands will break, followed by another, until enough are broken that the entire cable itself will give.
You need to find out why the first strand breaks. "Normally", on a new cable, it is a sharp edge or an inability for the barrel to rotate in the lever (its main function) which causes the strands to begin to break.

[bwringer]

What he said. ^^^^

This time, replace the lever with a new OEM lever and replace the cable with a new OEM cable. Use a wee dab of waterproof grease on the recess where the cable end pivots in the lever, along with a bit o' grease on the lever pivots.

Over time, the pivot hole in the lever wears so it's egg-shaped, and then it "traps" the barrel end so it can't rotate. This then bends the wires back and forth every time you use the clutch and quickly breaks the cable. You will keep breaking cables until you replace the lever.

OEM levers and cables are much better made and last far longer than the aftermarket crap. And OEM parts only cost a little bit more (less, in some cases). For example, the OEM cable will have a plastic sleeve over the barrel end that reduces friction, and most aftermarket cables leave this out to save a penny per cable. And an OEM lever will last a lot longer before the pivot holes wear out than whatever cheddar cheese Motion Pro makes its levers from.

[jeff.saunders]

Jeff, several things to check. The barrel on the end of the cable MUST pivot in the lever blade. If you have corrosion in that hole stopping the barrel from pivoting, you will break the cable at the barrel. Also check the cable adjuster to make sure there are no rough edges around the slotted area.

[rudeman]

I know the horse is dead but OEM clutch cables have the Teflon bushing on the lever-end ball that prevents binding. That alone reduces the effort required to move the clutch lever. be sure to check your lever free play too. You don't want to have any undue mechanical stress on the ball; properly adjusted free play will minimize the stress.

You can use lighter or OEM clutch springs but they don't affect cable life. UNLESS THERE IS NO FREE PLAY IN THE CLUTCH LEVER.

[nejeff]

Jeff, several things to check. The barrel on the end of the cable MUST pivot in the lever blade. If you have corrosion in that hole stopping the barrel from pivoting, you will break the cable at the barrel. Also check the cable adjuster to make sure there are no rough edges around the slotted area.

I am going to give it a good looking over tonight. I don't have time to change out the clutch springs right now but I am keeping that suggestion in the back of my head. Jeff, Do you guys sell any oem Suzuki parts or can you get them (ie clutch cable)? I need to order a few things and would like to add that on to an upcoming order

[nejeff]

What he said. ^^^^

This time, replace the lever with a new OEM lever and replace the cable with a new OEM cable. Use a wee dab of waterproof grease on the recess where the cable end pivots in the lever, along with a bit o' grease on the lever pivots.

Over time, the pivot hole in the lever wears so it's egg-shaped, and then it "traps" the barrel end so it can't rotate. This then bends the wires back and forth every time you use the clutch and quickly breaks the cable. You will keep breaking cables until you replace the lever.

OEM levers and cables are much better made and last far longer than the aftermarket crap. And OEM parts only cost a little bit more (less, in some cases). For example, the OEM cable will have a plastic sleeve over the barrel end that reduces friction, and most aftermarket cables leave this out to save a penny per cable. And an OEM lever will last a lot longer before the pivot holes wear out than whatever cheddar cheese Motion Pro makes its levers from.

Looks like the lever is egged out so I am pricing oem ones now. Greased it for the time being as it wasn't rotating well. Time to spend some money I guess

[tkent02]

Not much. A nice smooth clutch that doesn't break cables is worth a few bucks.