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Don't rush prepping race bikes or how to learn to love low oil pressure
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Kyler
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Kyler
Originally posted by posplayr View PostI have a 15 psi pressure gauge connected to the rear sensor plate. With 750 gears and top end oiler, I can still peg the 15 psi gauge when reving but it also doesn't take too much to drain the pan. This is with a stock Oil pan.
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Gammaboy
Originally posted by posplayr View PostI have a 15 psi pressure gauge connected to the rear sensor plate. With 750 gears and top end oiler, I can still peg the 15 psi gauge when reving but it also doesn't take too much to drain the pan. This is with a stock Oil pan.
Are you running a stock pickup?
The stock pickups are terrible and will pull air easily because the highest point of the pickup is 1" above the bottom of the sump. Blank the tubes and cut a hole in the bottom of the pickup so it will pull oil from the bottom of the sump like a modern bike (Well, anything post 1983!)...
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Originally posted by Gammaboy View PostCan you clarify what you mean by "drain the pan"?
Are you running a stock pickup?
The stock pickups are terrible and will pull air easily because the highest point of the pickup is 1" above the bottom of the sump. Blank the tubes and cut a hole in the bottom of the pickup so it will pull oil from the bottom of the sump like a modern bike (Well, anything post 1983!)...
The pressure gauge will ramp quickly and peg the gauge at 15 psi, and as I recall it will drop quickly after a few seconds. It comes right back.
All stock 1983 gs1100ED (pan, pickup).
I don't remember pressure dropping to zero but perhaps back down to 10 psi from 15 psi. It is all happening pretty quick and not data logged.
It is possible it is related to a slow shift, it has been awhile. My recollection was I assumed the pickup was running on air for a moment or two.
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Kyler, feel free to call me at 714--356-7845 if you want answers on the 1100 motors. I have over 30 of them & have built & raced them since they came out. They are a MUCH better engine than the 750 engine you currently race. Pretty bulletproof in fact! Making those 80-82, plain bearing 750 engines live is a losing battle unless you are splitting the cases to look at the bearings several times a year. I used to road race those engines also & they had a bad oiling system for high rpm use.
Ray.
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Kyler
Originally posted by rapidray View PostKyler, feel free to call me at 714--356-7845 if you want answers on the 1100 motors. I have over 30 of them & have built & raced them since they came out. They are a MUCH better engine than the 750 engine you currently race. Pretty bulletproof in fact! Making those 80-82, plain bearing 750 engines live is a losing battle unless you are splitting the cases to look at the bearings several times a year. I used to road race those engines also & they had a bad oiling system for high rpm use.
Ray.
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Gammaboy
Originally posted by Kyler View Postsounds like an oil accumulator is needed to put an 1100 in a sidecar
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Kyler
After an interlude of family visits, I finally got the bike unloaded.
First thing I did was a compression test (done cold carbs open). I did three each tests.
#1: 105, 105, 105
#2: 80, 65, 80
#3: 70, 90, 90
#4: 120, 120, 120
but I should have started with the filter - it is full of filings.
On to motor #3.
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Kyler
my day went downhill quick. I pulled motor #3 out and started tearing it down. The mud dauber nests were bad enough but then I noticed EVERY exhaust flange bolt had been cut off. I popped the valve cover and the cams were galled too. {sigh} Looks like this season is over.
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Kyler
Originally posted by rapidray View PostDon't give up so quickly. If you have 3 engines you should have enough parts to make ONE good one. Call me if I can help.
Ray.Last edited by Guest; 09-14-2014, 12:49 PM.
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