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Why no silicone valve cover gasket if tach drive in valve cover?

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    Why no silicone valve cover gasket if tach drive in valve cover?

    Based on a number of posts I've read, I am ordering an OEM valve cover gasket for my GS1100ED which does have the tach drive in the valve cover.

    I've also read that we should not use a silicone gasket with this setup. Why is that?
    sigpic
    1983 GS1100ES (Bought July 2014)
    1983 GS1100E (Bought July 2014)
    1985 GS700ES (Bought June 2015) Sold
    On Christ the Solid Rock I Stand
    All Other Ground is Sinking Sand

    #2
    The Real Gaskets squish out and rip making them leak. And you cant torque the bolts because of this and they tend to back out and then make even more leaks. Stay with the OEM paper gasket and dont waste the time or money on the other junk.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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      #3
      Some say the silicone gaskets don't fit properly and therefore don't seal; I don't know for sure as I always use the OEM
      Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

      1981 GS550T - My First
      1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
      2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

      Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
      Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
      and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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        #4
        Actually the reason for no silicone gasket when the tach drive is in the cover is that it holds the drive to far away from the cam gear , and they have a tendency to strip the drive gears. But yes the gaskets also have a tendency to leak if you don't torque then properly wich is like 6 in pounds on each screw
        1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
        80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
        1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
        83 gs750ed- first new purchase
        85 EX500- vintage track weapon
        1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
        “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
        If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

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          #5
          I've also read that the RealGaskets are too thick for tach-drive-in-valve-cover bikes, distancing the tach drive gear too far from the gear teeth on the exhaust cam so as to not engage properly. (oops, took too long to post reply)
          Last edited by recycled64; 08-24-2014, 07:56 PM.
          sigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
          '58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
          '67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
          '71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
          '66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
          '73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
          '78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
          '81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
          '81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
          '82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current

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            #6
            Double whammy of reasons to just stick with the stock gaskets. I, myself was interested in them, then the reviews on the forum quickly made me rethink it..and glad I didnt go there.
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment


              #7
              Most 16v guys know if there is too much clearance you can have the speedo gear grind off the tach gear on the exhaust cam. This often leads to a lot of money being spent on new cams.
              a lot of 8v guys use real gaskets as they must work and ther is no issue with the tach gear.
              so for a 16v guy the only reason and really important reason not use a real gasket is the first mentioned.
              what is hard to imagine is that with all the mentions this is not more clear and needs yet another thread to malign the topic.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                ... a lot of 8v guys use real gaskets as they must work and ther is no issue with the tach gear. ...
                The 650 has the tach drive in the valve cover, so no Real Gasket there, please.

                I installed one on an 850 that I had for a while, but sold the bike before I had a chance to evaluate how well it held up.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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                  #9
                  I got a 16v with the tach in cover.
                  I Installed the REAL gasket, but never got a chance to use it cause my crank case bearing disintegrated. Will be fixed shortly.
                  I also switch to a digital RPM So I removed the tach and plugged the hole.
                  I agree that you have use proper torque and tightening sequence so not to squish it as it's pretty thick and it will tear.
                  The first time you install it, make sure all is squeaky clean and oil free use break cleaner on a rag for the aluminum, DO not use break cleaner on silicone, use soap and water !!.
                  Take your time for the fit and follow the contour it has to be at the least flush.

                  The only thing I do not like is the faded orange/pink color, Why that color? Black would have been cooler!

                  I'll report back once I get my GS back on the road.

                  Haha I realized I was far from an answer. The REAL gasket is to thick. The tach worm gear contact with the exhaust cam will be to close to there edge, the threads will break off and you will have to enjoy a nice expensive valve job!
                  Last edited by Guest; 08-25-2014, 01:43 PM.

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                    #10
                    Ordered one and was all wound up to use it... all clean and dry. Got to the dragstrip and gave everyone a smoke show from leakage.. Cleaned and replaced it 3 times at the track. No luck. Not for me on a 16 valve head with no tach...
                    Curt
                    sigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On

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                      #11
                      I just posted a thread about engine noise and gradual loss of tach reading...think I found my answer here, I have a thick red VC gskt...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You need a shoulder bolt to hold a silicon gasket. It is the only way to hold a silicon gasket without over tightening it and get the proper torque to keep the bolt from loosening. Like what is used on the GS1150 and later model bikes.
                        My stable
                        84 GSX1100EFG-10.62 @ 125 mph 64'' W/B.
                        85 GS1150-9.72@146mph stock W/B.
                        88 GSXR1100-dragbike 9.18@139.92mph/5.68@118mph.
                        98 Bandit 1200-9.38@146mph/6.02@121mph.
                        90 Suzuki GS 1425cc FBG Pro Stock chassis 5.42@124mph
                        06 GSXR750 10.44@135mph
                        00 Honda elite 80 pit bike

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                          #13
                          The stock gasket won't stick if antisieze is applied to it. It can be reused once or twice.
                          NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

                          Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
                          Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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                            #14
                            Well my bike is back on the road. Using the REAL gasket without the tach gear installed and it does not leak. I revved it up to the red line no leaks. Mind you it takes longer to properly align it since it's to flexible. Torque is pretty simple. tight it until a light squish. go for a ride and adjust as required.I was getting ****ed off at the gasket and kind of f*ed up one of the holes where the locating pin/tube, I banged the valve cover and cut the eyelet.( never work on your bike when your frustrated) If I was to start over I would use the OEM gasket and just buy a spare one. I would never use this at the race track since it takes to much time a patience to properly align it. It's to flexible. They could sandwich a stiff mesh in the middle of it for stiffness like one of my matts I use for cooking maybe that would help and add extruding pull tabs to help in its adjustment.

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