1150 crank, clutch basket and starter clutch in an 1100?

[geek]

For the GS, it will be a LOT cheaper to get what you need from the start. Can't over stress the fuel. If you plan to run gasoline, C16 is great stuff. Busa motor would be much cheaper.

Get it making some power, you may end up like my old GS1150 back halved chassis. The square tube has not been a problem but getting the power from the cradle to the tire was. There's a lot more weight, but the bike rides like the family car and is a lot quicker with less power.

Hope some of this will save you some cash.

pcoat2.jpg

[turbojonn]

Thats alot of motor! I've lowered my hp expectations a bit. I'm looking to build a good street motor, for not too much $.

[jimb12]

Thats alot of motor! I've lowered my hp expectations a bit. I'm looking to build a good street motor, for not too much $.

If you're leaving the helical primary on there then yes lower your hp goal quite a bit.

[rapidray]

There is a HUGE difference in what is required for a FUNNY BIKE type drag race engine, that is running a car tire slick, & a NON RACE street tire bike. I build overkill but you guys are really good at spending someone else's money for parts that AREN'T required for his type of build. Did you READ the part where he said this is for a STREET bike?!! I DO agree with Mark about doing everything possible for the oiling system though!
Ray.

[geek]

There is a HUGE difference in what is required for a FUNNY BIKE type drag race engine, that is running a car tire slick, & a NON RACE street tire bike. I build overkill but you guys are really good at spending someone else's money for parts that AREN'T required for his type of build. Did you READ the part where he said this is for a STREET bike?!! I DO agree with Mark about doing everything possible for the oiling system though!
Ray.

HAHA, before you get all drama queen on us Ray, what I read is he planned to make 300 HP to do dyno pulls on a $2000 budget. Obviously, if you want to make that sort of power with a GS you need to make some mods. Showing someone what goes into a motor is not spending their money, it's educating them. I am not trying to miss lead someone into thinking if they spend 2K on my old parts they are going to be happy. Just the opposite. I'm telling him to keep his money and buy a busa.

Assuming your first comment was about my old GSs, they are pretty low tech, button start, draw thrus. Both use a car tire but not even close to funny bikes. They are way too reliable and slow....

Left to right, stock, Wiseco, MTC tools steel, APE tool steel. The MTC pins looked real good. I ended up using the APE parts and never switched them.

[jimb12]

There is a HUGE difference in what is required for a FUNNY BIKE type drag race engine, that is running a car tire slick, & a NON RACE street tire bike. I build overkill but you guys are really good at spending someone else's money for parts that AREN'T required for his type of build. Did you READ the part where he said this is for a STREET bike?!! I DO agree with Mark about doing everything possible for the oiling system though!
Ray.

Was my suggestion of straight-cut primary drive, considering his goal of 250hp+, included in this rant?

[geek]

Was my suggestion of straight-cut primary drive, considering his goal of 250hp+, included in this rant?

Forget the drama. I would suggest SC gear, new bearings, 493 rods and weld would be a minimum you would want to do with a crank.

Same with the billet basket, billet shaft, billet gears and better bearings in the transmission, valve seat pressure, studs. All basic stuff.

Always best to call people you know are building the fast stuff. Places like FBG, Star, Pouge (haha) didn't get where they are by giving bad advice or providing a bad service.

[turbojonn]

I feel I should jump in here. I'm loving this help but I don't want my lack of knowledge to start bad feelings. I thought 300 would be attainable more easily attainable than it appears to be. I won't be trying to hook it at the track with a big tire so I figured the excess ho would just spin the tire. My other bike is a 402 hp busa with studs, rods, pistons and hd clutch springs so I thought a similar build would net 300 on my gs. I'm fine with 250, 200 or whatever studs pistons and undercutting will net. Thanks again for all this help, I'd be lost if I had to rely on local help only.

[geek]

I thought 300 would be attainable more easily attainable than it appears to be. I won't be trying to hook it at the track with a big tire so I figured the excess ho would just spin the tire. My other bike is a 402 hp busa with studs, rods, pistons and hd clutch springs so I thought a similar build would net 300 on my gs. I'm fine with 250, 200 or whatever studs pistons and undercutting will net. Thanks again for all this help, I'd be lost if I had to rely on local help only.

It's pretty easy but not on a $2000 budget. Personally, I would have left the GS alone except for repairs and just enjoyed it for what it is. Put the 2K into the busa. That's got to be a fun bike to ride at 400 HP. At 1 bar, my busa is a blast. No where near that power. My drag bikes no where near that power!

[turbojonn]

It is a lot of fun. It is so far beyond ridiculous I find it hard to describe. It's about 3 inches over and will do throttle burnouts at 180. but there's just something about the GS that makes me smile when I ride it. Even if I'm not going 180.

[geek]

It is a lot of fun. It is so far beyond ridiculous I find it hard to describe. It's about 3 inches over and will do throttle burnouts at 180. but there's just something about the GS that makes me smile when I ride it. Even if I'm not going 180.

Not sure I would want to do a burnout at 180. Do you have any videos of it doing this? Would be cool to see it on a drag strip.

I bought a Mr Turbo kit back in the 80's (they were still in Chicago) for my GS. 7PSI, pump gas, stock bike. Was a lot of fun on the street.