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Camchain Tensioner Removal Info Needed

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    Camchain Tensioner Removal Info Needed

    Hi people,

    I need to remove the starter motor on my GS550 for repair. I assume I have to remove the carbs and camchain tensioner to allow it's removal.

    My question is does the engine need to be in a particular position; i.e. TDC No. 1 Cyl - before the tensioner can be removed?

    Second question is can I do the camchain tensioner removal and replacement without removing the cyl head cover?

    I could not find anything in the GS550 manual about removing the camchain tensioner - plenty about replacing it, but nothing on removal.

    Opinions and advice welcome.

    Thanks again.

    #2
    Hi Don. Best to set the engine to TDC but there's no need to pull the cam cover. I'm sure you already know it but on the tensioner loosen off the lock nut on the side and tighten the screw to stop the plunger flying out. Follow the manual procedure when putting it back, which is pretty much the reverse.

    I think some people suggest you can get the thing out without pulling the carbs and tensioner but it's way easier to get them out of the way.
    79 GS1000S
    79 GS1000S (another one)
    80 GSX750
    80 GS550
    80 CB650 cafe racer
    75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
    75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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      #3
      I thought the manual had something in there for removing the cam chain tensioner. For reference, here's a link:



      There's also that nice write up on replacing tensioner oil seals which has nice pictures too.

      The tensioner is easy to remove but you may need a new gasket.

      To remove it you first loosen the 12mm jamb nut which holds the set screw in the "out" position.
      You then turn the set screw in until it stops. This screw keeps the tensioner rod from pushing out
      when you remove the tensioner.

      You then back out the 10mm bolts holding the tensioner to the head. Pull the tensioner out.

      Clean it. Remove any broken gasket if needed.

      To put it back in you first back out the set screw while holding down the plunger. The plunger
      will want to pop out but you want to actually push it in slightly. It won't want to be pushed in
      but there's a knob on the tensioner which you can turn counter clockwise and this will release
      the plunger so it will go back into the tensioner body. This is important because you don't want
      to reinsert the tensioner when the plunger is fully out. You could damage the cam chain.

      Once you have the plunger back into the tensioner body, you turn the set screw in to hold it in
      place and put the assembly back onto the bike with the gasket. I like to coat both sides of the
      gasket with a light amount of sealer.

      When the tension is back on (with the 10mm bolts) you back out the set screw (you will feel a
      slight spring release). You then turn the jamb nut to lock the set screw in the out position. Careful
      to not turn the set screw back in while you turn the jamb nut. You want that plunger to be able
      to slide freely in there.

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        #4
        Originally posted by hampshirehog View Post
        Hi Don. Best to set the engine to TDC but there's no need to pull the cam cover. I'm sure you already know it but on the tensioner loosen off the lock nut on the side and tighten the screw to stop the plunger flying out. Follow the manual procedure when putting it back, which is pretty much the reverse.

        I think some people suggest you can get the thing out without pulling the carbs and tensioner but it's way easier to get them out of the way.
        Thanks Josh, for info supplied. I just need to remove the tensioner and replace it as soon as the starter motor is out. I mean the bike starts fine on the kick start, but would like the starter motor working if possible. If I can't fix the starter, I will leave it off the bike (weight saving), etc.

        I have read the starter can be removed without removing the carbs and tensioner, but only in relation to the larger motors -- 850 and above. I guess things are a bit tighter on the 550.

        Thanks again.

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