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    Any lock tote INSIDE the motor and...

    Does one torque with parts oily or dry, or does it not matter?
    1981 GS 1100e turbo, 83 motor, turbo pistons, new head, new turbo, backed and welded clutch basket, Dyna S ignition, cbr 929 front end, gsxr 750 rear end with 190 tire, all carbon fiber covered bodywork.

    #2
    Never ever seen loctite called for inside the motor. If you use locktite the threads and hole have to be completely clean of oil and debris otherwise you're just ****ing in the wind cause the locktite won't set up. I'm not sure best practice on dry threads or oiled threads. There is a certain amount of difference in torque values though.

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      #3
      I use loctite on pretty much everything inside the motor. Mostly use the 242, but the studs get the red.

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        #4
        Originally posted by turbojonn View Post
        Does one torque with parts oily or dry, or does it not matter?
        It matters a great deal, the required torque values are quite different between dry and lubed threads. Pretty much everything I have ever seen in a manual is a dry torque unless a thread locking compound is called out. Assuming it is a dry number is the conservative choice because the worst that will happen is you under torque the fastener a bit if it was supposed to be lubed, but if you use a dry number on a lubed fastener it is easy to overload the fastener to the failure point.


        Mark
        1982 GS1100E
        1998 ZX-6R
        2005 KTM 450EXC

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          #5
          The countersink screws that hold the 2 plates on behind the clutch hub get blue Loctite & installed with an impact driver.
          Ray.

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