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1981 GS650 clutch assembly

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    1981 GS650 clutch assembly

    Greetings. I picked up a GS650 a few months ago that sat up a very long time. It was found in a storage shed and has a little under 3000 miles on it. I bought new clutch plates but am having a hard time getting them back in. As I surmise, part number 21 in the attached picture pushes against part number 14 to release pressure on the clutch plates. The issue I have is that part has way too far to travel to push that "pre disk" as it's called. It's almost like there too many clutch pates in it but I have exactly what the diagram shows and that's exactly what came out of it.

    The 8 friction clutch plates are NOS and the one I measured was 3.17mm thick. The spec I saw in the manual says standard is 2.7-2.9 but I still don't think that will account for how far it seems off. Does anyone have a few close up pictures of their clutch basket that I can compare?

    I appreciate your time. I've worked on primarily '70/early '80s model Hondas and racked up many, many posts over on the Honda SOHC forum.
    Attached Files

    #2
    No , I didn't take mine out! Here's my spare. Pic will probably be upside down on your end, as this iPad gizmo has it's own mind.
    Attached Files
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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      #3
      Clutch Basket

      Take a look at post #23.

      That's the end result...with #21 sticking out and the teeth in the direction towards the rear of the bike:



      Ed
      GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
      GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
      GSX-R750Y (Sold)

      my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

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        #4
        Gentlemen, thank you. I did get it figured out eventually. I had to pull that little thing with the teeth out toward the pre-disk before I put the cover on. It takes some touch I guess. I got fresh oil in it and cranked it but I'm not getting spark on cylinder #1. I had spark on cylinder #2. I didn't get to check the other side, I'm out of time for the day but I'm figuring it may be like my honda fours, 1/4 share a coil and 2/3 share.

        Comment


          #5
          Why in the world would you replace a near brand new clutch?

          Yes on the coil sharing. Pull the tank and take a look.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            Why in the world would you replace a near brand new clutch?

            Yes on the coil sharing. Pull the tank and take a look.
            This picture should explain why the friction plates were all replaced. When I changed the oil, the crankcase was full of gas...

            I switched the leads into the coils and both coils work. I also switched the signal generator leads to the igniter and that made no change. Looks like that leaves the igniter unfortunately...

            I should also mention I ohm'd out the signal generator as well and was within the range specified by the manual. I see there's a thread currently active in the electrical forum about this as well.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Guest; 12-29-2014, 11:23 PM.

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