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Where to weld starter clutch to rotor?
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I went kick start only on my 920cc '77-79 GS750, & removed the entire starter clutch, & then took a cutoff wheel to the starter gear & cut it off the hub, leaving only the hub & bearings there as to not alter crank oil feed pressures any. Extreme weight savings! Bike weighs in the 480's now with gas & oil & bigger tires/rims & dual disc, from 532lbs stock w/single disc & skinny tires! Handles way better in dieted form.'77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
'97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
'99 Kawasaki KDX220R rebuild in progress
'79 GS425 stock
PROJECTS:
'77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
'77 GS550 740cc major mods
'77 GS400 489cc racer build
'76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
'78 GS1000C/1100
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Well I don't have the kick start option, but have bump started many times and ran around for over year without a starter clutch. Parked on hills when I could, but live on a flat street.GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
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Originally posted by rapidray View PostI just looked at the photos of Bellucci"s & that is NOT where I weld them! I will see what I can come up with today.
Ray.GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
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wildeye
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Ray sent a picture to my android phone, don't how to load that. It was basically outside of where the three allen bolt are. The outer circumference of starter clutch where it mates to the rotor. He said to mig weld a 1'' bead outside each bolt, and make sure it's free of oil residue. The picture actually showed a pencil pointing to where the welds should be.GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
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Originally posted by Carter Turk View PostRay sent a picture to my android phone, don't how to load that. It was basically outside of where the three allen bolt are. The outer circumference of starter clutch where it mates to the rotor. He said to mig weld a 1'' bead outside each bolt, and make sure it's free of oil residue. The picture actually showed a pencil pointing to where the welds should be.
It would certainly help more than a few people (myself included).
Thanks!2000 Honda Valkyrie Tourer (it's gone)
1985 Suzuki Madura GV1200
2 X 1980 Suzuki GSX1100ETs (next projects)
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I am going to chime in on this since the pics of the one welded is in my bike. I had the welds done because I could not stop breaking the bolts. The 3 bolts heads were welded as an afterthought. The other 3 beads is what I think keeps it from breaking the bolts. Since welding it up like that, there has been no breakage. I am not the expert, but this seems to work for me. I raced a lot last year. The bike is running mid 9.20's with me at 210 lbs on it. I get 1.30's to 1.40's for 60 foot times. The only problem was the nut holding the sc to the crank backed off a little. A big splash of red loctite on the taper and crank the nut on tight. If and when mine scatters or the welds break, I will weld in the same place since it works for me.
Curtsigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On
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Originally posted by quexpress View PostWould it be possible to send this picture (email, etc.) to another member of this forum who could then upload the picture to this thread?
It would certainly help more than a few people (myself included).
Thanks!
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cbxchris
Originally posted by cbxchris View PostI agree.......and I ran some big street engines with a LOT of compression.
Its bad when you ask yourself a question on the forum. I will leave it. Getting old sucks.....
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