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Valve clearance is way to big

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    Valve clearance is way to big

    At 37,000 on the odometer, I decided to check the valves on my 1980 gs850. I figured out the clearances and started to put in new shims. On my 4th exhaust valve, it was originally at a 2.55mm shim, needing a 2.50mm to open it up a little bit. After I put in my new shim, removed the zip tie from holding the valve open, and rotated my cam a few times to ensure proper seating, I immediately knew I had a problem; I could see it. The valve clearance between the cam lobe and the shim was enormous to the point where I could see visible sunlight between the two pieces. The gap itself looked to be maybe a solid millimeter. Has anyone else had this issue?

    Thanks,

    #2
    A large chunk of carbon got dislodged from your valve stem and got stuck to the valve seat BECAUSE you used a zip tie instead of the factory tool?

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      #3
      Lesson learned.I'll take a look and see if that's the issue. For the mean time, does anybody else have an idea of what it can be?

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        #4
        Eric already said what the problem is; gunk caught under the valve keeping it from seating. Shouldn't be overly difficult to get it out, although you may need the proper depressor tool to do it.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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          #5
          Okay, so I can add too GSX1000E's list of reason why one should avoid using zipties to adjust valves. I feel incredibly stupid, but one of the zipties I was using snapped while inside of the sparkplug hole. What's the best way to remove that? I don't think it'd easily fall out if I drained the oil.
          Last edited by Guest; 12-29-2014, 04:08 PM.

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            #6
            I would just try to start the engine. It should blow right out.
            NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

            Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
            Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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              #7
              I would highly recommend NOT starting the motor until you fish that piece out. You could easily bend a connecting rod if the piece gets around the edge of the piston. I would rig up a small diameter piece if clear plastic hose to a shop vac and see if you can suck it out. Make sure the valve that is hung open is not trapping the piece of zip tie........Billy

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                #8
                Originally posted by hoburger View Post
                I feel incredibly stupid, but one of the zipties I was using snapped while inside of the sparkplug hole. What's the best way to remove that? I don't think it'd easily fall out if I drained the oil.
                I have not had the problem that Eric seems to have with dislodging carbon bits around the valves, and I use zip-ties ALL the time. And, I don't just do my bikes. In my previous job, I travelled a lot, and helped many other GSers with their bikes on the weekends. Can't tell you how many different bikes I have used zip-ties on.

                That being said, there is a very good reason for doubling over the zip-tie (and securing it) before putting it in the spark plug hole. On the off chance that you manage to cut through one layer, you still have the folded-over part that keeps it from falling in. In my years of doing this, I have found that I can do valve shim inventories (which require a LOT more use of the zip-tie) on at least six bikes before seeing the slightest hint of 'damage' to the zip-tie. I think I cut the first zip-tie after doing about 10 bikes.

                Now, I am just trying to figure out just how draining the oil will remove some foreign matter from above the piston.

                Nope, not gonna happen.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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                  #9
                  I have never had any problem adjusting my valve shims using the factory tool that was designed by the engineers that designed the engines.
                  If some wish to save a few bucks and rely on voodoo, magic potions, snake oil or zip ties rather than buying the readily available tool,
                  perhaps they should tell those engineers just where they went wrong because a member on GSR knows MUCH more than they did.

                  Available from our friends at Z1 Enterprises for even less than this Ebay item...

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Steve View Post
                    I have not had the problem that Eric seems to have with dislodging carbon bits around the valves, and I use zip-ties ALL the time. And, I don't just do my bikes. In my previous job, I travelled a lot, and helped many other GSers with their bikes on the weekends. Can't tell you how many different bikes I have used zip-ties on.

                    That being said, there is a very good reason for doubling over the zip-tie (and securing it) before putting it in the spark plug hole. On the off chance that you manage to cut through one layer, you still have the folded-over part that keeps it from falling in. In my years of doing this, I have found that I can do valve shim inventories (which require a LOT more use of the zip-tie) on at least six bikes before seeing the slightest hint of 'damage' to the zip-tie. I think I cut the first zip-tie after doing about 10 bikes.

                    Now, I am just trying to figure out just how draining the oil will remove some foreign matter from above the piston.

                    Nope, not gonna happen.

                    .
                    Why would a seemingly smart guy such as yourself recommend this hocus pocus method to GS diy'ers? To save a $20 bill? I went to motorcycle tech school some years ago and the zip tie method was not covered as far as I remember. This site recommends doing it yourself, including in depth processes like carb rebuilding where NO shortcuts can be taken yet recommend zip ties in place of real motorcycle tools? Always gives me a laugh when I read someone uses the zip tie method.

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                      #11
                      A while back I put a poll up about valve adjustment, and feedback was that something like 1/4 of GSR'ers don't adjust their valves. You would think that people that frequent a motorcycle forum would be more tech savvy, but it is what it is. Using the tiewrap method is simple and doesn't require any special tools, so people that wouldn't normally adjust valves may do so. They still need to get their hands on shims but regardless, I'm fairly confident that the tiewrap method is a positive development in the long term health of GS bikes on the planet. Lets go easy on those tiewrap users. There are far worse things one could do to their bikes.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                        #12
                        For the experts that KNOW MORE than the Suzuki engineers, why not contact them and help them correct the problems?
                        I am certain that they would LOVE to hear from you.

                        American Suzuki Motor Corporation
                        3251 E. Imperial Hwy
                        Brea, CA 92821
                        (714) 996-7040
                        1-800-934-0934
                        Fax: (714) 579-1272

                        How to get through to a person.
                        Direct to person.

                        Elliott Report (Elliott.org) is a consumer news site dedicated to resolving problems between businesses and their customers.

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                          #13
                          Having never owned a 2 valve Suzuki, im ignorant on the whole zip tie vs. factory tool method. Is this to fish out the shims?

                          Regarding the spark plug opening....After losing a nut into the cylinder many years ago, i ALWAYS keep them covered..
                          sigpic
                          When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

                          Glen
                          -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
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                            #14
                            Originally posted by dorkburger View Post
                            Having never owned a 2 valve Suzuki, im ignorant on the whole zip tie vs. factory tool method. Is this to fish out the shims?

                            Regarding the spark plug opening....After losing a nut into the cylinder many years ago, i ALWAYS keep them covered..
                            They use the tie wrap between the valve and the valve seat in order to keep the valve open. That allows them to remove the shim and replace it without any other tools. The down side is it can pickup or dislodge some carbon from behind the valve which, as in this case, cause an incorrect reading of valve clearance. Doesn't effect the engine in the long run because the carbon will get blown away once the engine starts. Just makes it more difficult to ensure you're getting a true clearance measurement.
                            http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                            1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                            1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                            1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                            Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                            JTGS850GL aka Julius

                            GS Resource Greetings

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                              #15
                              First I heard of the zip tie was here and out of curiosity tried it. I immediately noticed one or two clearances not coming back to where my calculations predicted they should have. A few revolutions sorted it out. I used a 6mm tie doubled over and noticed it starting to cut up after use.
                              97 R1100R
                              Previous
                              80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

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