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    1150 starter not disengaging

    Added photos at end of thread. Trying to fire up the bike for the first time since June. Fresh oil, plugs, rings, piston, left end, starter clutch, used rotor....and the starter or starter clutch is staying engaged.

    My Proto torque wrench only goes up to 800 in/lbs, so I heard the click and went further with a 1/2 drive socket. They say max is 126 ft/lbs

    on the rotor nut. Which is what?-1512 inch/lbs. New thrust washer against the crank and new copper shim inside the starter clutch. Rather bummed, but I

    wasn't expecting it to go smoothly for some reason. I did notice the larger starter clutch gear was turning one way like it's supposed to, but had a fair amount

    of resistance. It's been pouring rain, but let up, so plan was go break-in the motor this afternoon. Not gonna happen now.

    Any thoughts, advice appreciated, thanks.
    Last edited by Carter Turk; 02-08-2015, 01:41 PM.
    GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

    #2
    My guess is one of the springs popped out when you were fitting the rotor/clutch or the rotor is too far in on the crank taper.
    Weird since the rotor had no wear at the taper and the crank end is new.
    Did you use the dowel on the rotor? Did it seat all the way?
    Are the bolts the correct length and not eating your stator?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      My guess is one of the springs popped out when you were fitting the rotor/clutch or the rotor is too far in on the crank taper.
      Weird since the rotor had no wear at the taper and the crank end is new.
      Did you use the dowel on the rotor? Did it seat all the way?
      Are the bolts the correct length and not eating your stator?
      Chef thanks for responding
      All the above was done, however, when I just pulled the rotor off minutes ago, it appears the large starter gear was pressing firmly into the copper shim or whatever you call it in the SC. The dowel was too long at first, but I grinded it down, so that appeared to be seating properly. Actually, I told the mechanic it was riding high in that spot and he ground it down some more. Still not enough maybe???

      The copper thrust washer that fits behind the larger starter clutch gear, appears "proud" of the the recess it fits into behind the gear which I think is correct.

      It was relatively easy to remove the rotor, compared to previous recent attempts. I was worried that my partially stripped rotor puller was going to damage the

      rotor I just bought from you. Eventhough it doesn't appear worn, I wonder if shimming the taper with floss or pop can might help matters?
      GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

      Comment


        #4
        main bearing then thrust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
        you should not be having these problems.
        Last edited by blowerbike; 02-07-2015, 11:07 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
          main bearing then trust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
          you should not be having these problems.
          Correct, that is the order.
          GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

          Comment


            #6
            so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?

            Comment


              #7
              Pull the rotor/starter clutch assembly back off to look at EVERYTHING before you hurt something that will cost you a LOT of money!! Call me if you need to.
              Ray.

              Comment


                #8
                sharing is caring

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                  main bearing then trust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
                  you should not be having these problems.
                  You can't trust those washers.

                  Sorry...
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                    main bearing then thrust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
                    you should not be having these problems.
                    what you talkin bout willis?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                      what you talkin bout willis?
                      It's like I used to tell my students about calling it the "insertion point" instead of the "cursor" - you're revealing your age.
                      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                        so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?
                        Yes... I care to share. Was almost just tempted to bump start it and do my break-in the hard way on a flat road.
                        GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

                        Comment


                          #13
                          if you choose that way then do it with the SC and rotor removed.
                          now tell me...
                          so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?
                          Last edited by blowerbike; 02-08-2015, 12:07 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Is this a trick question? I thought I tried that when I pulled the rotor for inspection, although the rotor bolt was not on, so the rotor was spinning with the SC.

                            I'll try again in the AM.
                            GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

                            Comment


                              #15
                              very simple...
                              with your complete assembly installed...all but the idler gear..
                              will your large SC gear spin one way easily and smoothly and when spinning in the opposite direction does it engage and lock into place(will not turn).
                              try this several times just to confirm.
                              this can be checked off the bike but with your continuing problems...they need to be checked on the bike after it is impacted down.
                              what is causing the binding? that is the question.

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