How to remove secondary drive gears?

[JTGS850GL]

I'm working on one of my GS1000G engines and was wondering what's the best method to remove both the driven and drive gears. I've unbolted the 4 mounting bolts to both but they seem to be stuck. Is there some trick to removing them without damaging the flanges? The one that connects to the drive shaft seems to be particularly fragile.

[Nessism]

Some people here have reported success with loosening the case screws adjacent to the output flange so the gear assembly can be removed.

[JTGS850GL]

I'll give that a try.

[Steve]

I am one of "those people" that has reported that success.

Loosen the case bolts within a couple inches of the gears, then wiggle the gear set out. Be aware that there is not much play between the gear set and the housing, so it has to come out VERY straight. When you go to put it back in, it is easy to get it cocked sideways, so be careful.

You will think that there is not enough room to pull the gear set out, but if you rotate the output flange just right, it will fit.

.

[JTGS850GL]

Thanks Steve.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I now have a secondary drive problem on my 1981 GS1000G. The rear wheel will not turn easily (it only goes so far and won't go any farther) and I have narrowed it down to the secondary drive by first removing the rear caliper, then removing the 4 x 12mm head bolts under the boot at the engine so as to disconnect the shaft from the engine.

Searching through some threads, this one seems to be the most relevant recent one.

I've read the factory manual for replacement and think I have the equivalent special tools required. I'm not clear from Steve's response if the engine must be removed. The manual says for the driven gear it must be removed, but does not indicate this for the drive gear. This is one of those situations where if I take it apart I'd like to replace all of the bearings.

I could not find a how-to thread for this here (went back 5 pages in search) or on Cliff's site.

EDIT: Link to repair thread:
GS1000G Secondary Drive Bearing Replacement

[Steve]

I'm not clear from Steve's response if the engine must be removed.

Not sure about the 1000, but the 850 does not need to be removed. The frames are identical, but the 1000 engine might be just a bit longer.

The hardest part of my repair was getting the driven unit out STRAIGHT. Using two levering bars, I was able to rock the gearset EVER so SLIGHTLY from side to side, trying to keep it as straight as possible.

If you have ever removed a bucket from over a valve in the head, you will understand just how straight the gear has to be to slide in or out of its location. It is just as tight, but has no lubrication.

.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks for the info Steve.

[bwringer]

Same here -- although the manual tells you to remove the engine, there's juuuust enough clearance to remove it without doing this. You do have to remove the swingarm.

There's actually a tiny bit of a cutout in the frame to allow the drive unit to clear. Worst case, you can loosen the engine mounting bolts and carefully lift and lever the engine a wee bit to gain more clearance.

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks. I just pulled mine over the course of the last two days and am writing a how-to for the procedure. I found a lot of info on the bearings, the cost is less than half that of the dealer.

[AMK]

Thanks. I just pulled mine over the course of the last two days and am writing a how-to for the procedure. I found a lot of info on the bearings, the cost is less than half that of the dealer.

I'm going to wake this thread up again. Did you ever do the how to for the procedure and if so where did you put it?

I'm having an issue that sounds like secondary gear or bearing on an '83 1100L.

[GS1000G Shopper]

I'm going to wake this thread up again. Did you ever do the how to for the procedure and if so where did you put it?

I'm having an issue that sounds like secondary gear or bearing on an '83 1100L.

My oversight for not linking it:

GS1000G Secondary Drive Bearing Replacement

[AMK]

Cool, thanks!