Possible starter clutch issue?

[posplayr]

I don't remember who it was, but one of the people installing a SSPB complained to me that their bike would not start until after they released the start button. They figured it had something to do with the headlamp cutout circuitry in the SSPB. Well after a little experimentation it was discovered the the PO had wired the ground of the ignitro to the solenoid (Y/G) start line. The effect is that as long as the solenoid is engaged the ignitor will not fire. As soon as the start button is released the ignitor is grounded through the solenoid and the bike fires. It apparently worked so well that the person installing the SSPB had never noticed it before.

The other thing that helps is the headlamp cutout as it eliminated 5 amps to the headlamp while the engine is cranking. So probably a better solutions is :
A.) Wire the ignition ground to the Solenoid Y/G
B.) Wire in a headlamp relay as per these directions: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...eadlamp+cutout



I updated this link as well.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?123877-How-to-avoid-Starter-Clutch-Disaster-Modification&p=806505#post806505

[chef1366]

You need to go in and have a looksy

[Carter Turk]

Yes, I saw that thread. It was Posplayer that posted it. I decided to go with option 4 in his list of fixes because I like the clutch safety circuit being intact and that would not allow me to reach over with my left hand to start the bike. The delay relay seems like the best option as it would be automatic.

Still looking for someone to confirm the correct tool to remove the flywheel before I order it.

No, it wasn't Posplayer, but he has several more detailed choices and explanations to choose from. It was this guy
Jd Powell
Guest

Wow, Awesome thread! I stumbled across this one a few minutes ago. Sounded good so I thought I'd give it a try. Amazing results. On my bike, a 1980 GS1000G. I just unplugged the connector from the rt. handlebar switch. (located under the coils) In this connector power comes in on the red, goes through the kill switch, to the start button and the coils. This coil pwr wire exits the connector as an O/W wire. So by simply unlocking the pins in the connector (switch side not harness side) I was able to switch the red and O/W wires. Now power is available to the starting button whenever the key is on. The kill switch now only controls the ignition. New start sequence = Key on, push start button 1-2 sec, turn kill on, Success! The best part is no cutting/splicing needed. Also if you leave the kill switch on, the bike still starts normally

[posplayr]

No, it wasn't Posplayer, but he has several more detailed choices and explanations to choose from. It was this guy
Jd Powell
Guest

Wow, Awesome thread! I stumbled across this one a few minutes ago. Sounded good so I thought I'd give it a try. Amazing results. On my bike, a 1980 GS1000G. I just unplugged the connector from the rt. handlebar switch. (located under the coils) In this connector power comes in on the red, goes through the kill switch, to the start button and the coils. This coil pwr wire exits the connector as an O/W wire. So by simply unlocking the pins in the connector (switch side not harness side) I was able to switch the red and O/W wires. Now power is available to the starting button whenever the key is on. The kill switch now only controls the ignition. New start sequence = Key on, push start button 1-2 sec, turn kill on, Success! The best part is no cutting/splicing needed. Also if you leave the kill switch on, the bike still starts normally

Is it also available when the Ignition Key is OFF? Can you crank the engine with the key off? My guess since red is always hot, and it sounds like you connected O/W to Red.

[JTGS850GL]

You need to go in and have a looksy

Flywheel removal tool is ordered. As soon as it gets in I'll be pulling it down to see what happening. Not riding it till then. Need to replace a front fork seal as well. Other then that it rides soooo sweet!! 1100G engine has a ton of grunt down low. Makes for a nice smooth runner.

[Carter Turk]

Is it also available when the Ignition Key is OFF? Can you crank the engine with the key off? My guess since red is always hot, and it sounds like you connected O/W to Red.

It's not available with key off. I'm still having SC snatching and difficult start up, even with a brand new SC, left end taper and battery. I also recently cleaned the commutator in the starter motor. It was black. It's as if the battery doesn't have enough cranking amps to spin the engine fast enough before firing off the coils. Once warm, it's no problem.

[posplayr]

It's not available with key off. I'm still having SC snatching and difficult start up, even with a brand new SC, left end taper and battery. I also recently cleaned the commutator in the starter motor. It was black. It's as if the battery doesn't have enough cranking amps to spin the engine fast enough before firing off the coils. Once warm, it's no problem.

The main factor in the kick back is slow cranking, whether from Hi cc's or Hi compression or low voltage. You could still have issues with the starter that are not just the commutator: Shorted field windings or demagnetized magnets.