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    Question on Valve adjustment

    So for the first time I checked my valves and they were all less than .0015" which is the thinnest feeler gauge I have. The tappets all turn easily so not sure how much less than .0015 but it greater than zero. My question if the clearance wears larger over time and they are less than the the max should I just leave them or should I go get a metric feeler gauge that has a .03mm and see if they are above the .03mm.

    I also torqued my head for the first time. Probably less than a eighth of a turn on all nuts except the ones on the far sides. My manual says there are 3 6mm bolts as well but I could only see 2 and the pic in the manual only shows 2. I am assuming the 3 was a typo

    #2
    The valve seats wear lessening the clearance over time. A lot of guys on the forum adjust for maximum clearance.
    NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

    Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
    Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

    Comment


      #3
      The clearances will always decrease, so many of us will shoot for maximum (or even just aa little more) clearance.

      Inventory your shims. Once you know what all of them are, remove the thinnest one, insert a quarter. Move that thinnest shim around to the other valves, measure the clearance, determine what shim you will need. For help with the math, feel free to take advantage of the offer in my sig.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment


        #4
        Yea, I guess that makes more sense that the valve seat would wear faster than the shim. Thanks for the quarter tip. I also put the bike into 5th gear and turn the tire instead of turning the nut on the crank end. I already got your spreadsheet steve, thanks.

        Comment


          #5
          After you take a shim inventory you might want to consider ordering up enough shims to move each valve two shim numbers. Hopefully at least a few of the shims can be recycled from one valve to the next. Having enough shims to move the shims two steps is always good just in case, and for your next adjustment down the road.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by RGM View Post
            So for the first time I checked my valves and they were all less than .0015" which is the thinnest feeler gauge I have. The tappets all turn easily so not sure how much less than .0015 but it greater than zero. My question if the clearance wears larger over time and they are less than the the max should I just leave them or should I go get a metric feeler gauge that has a .03mm and see if they are above the .03mm.

            I also torqued my head for the first time. Probably less than a eighth of a turn on all nuts except the ones on the far sides. My manual says there are 3 6mm bolts as well but I could only see 2 and the pic in the manual only shows 2. I am assuming the 3 was a typo
            i think the 3rd 6mm bolt is at the front of the engine.

            Comment


              #7
              What a great position to be in, no previous owner! If you are interested in joining the shim club, you can save some money, particularly in the long run. In your case the very, very, long run.
              "Nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded" -Yogi Berra
              GS Valve Shim Club http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=122394
              1978 GS1000EC Back home with DJ
              1979 GS1000SN The new hope
              1986 VFR700F2 Recycled

              Comment


                #8
                OK I found the 3rd 6mm bolt, it is upside down at the front middle. Wasn't looking for a bolt installed upside down.

                My current shims are 3 2.75mm, 2 2.80, 1 2.85, 2 2.90. Looks like I will need 3 2.70, 3 2.75, 2 2.80 so have 1 2.85 and 2 2.90 if anyone wants to trade.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Contact the keeper of the GS Shim Club, Ghostgs1, he can tell you how the system works.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks to Ghostgs1 for the awesome service. I got all my shims all done and just need a bit more work to ride tomorrow.

                    Comment

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