Outer crank seal replacement w/o splitting the cases. Seeking advice

[willie]

The outermost crank seal on the right side (under the ignition plate of my '83 1100) is leaking. Is it feasible to pull the seal without splitting the cases? Has anyone else has done this?
If so, what lessons were learned as to the easiest way to pull the seal?
FWIW, I'm thinking of drilling a couple of small holes (ie. @ 12, 5 & 8 O'clock), screwing a sheet metal screw into each hole and grabbing the screws with a vise grip.
Am I kidding myself or is there an easier way?

I look forward to reading the advice of others who have done this job.

Thanks in advance for all responses, even if some of them warn me against pursuing this plan.
Willie

[chef1366]

Freeze the seal
grease the seal and push it on with a large socket, washers and a bolt that fits in the end of the crank.
Make sure it starts going in straight or you will ruin it. Buy two to make sure.

[bwringer]

Yep, ain't too hard. Fairly standard seal replacement. As Chef states, draw it in with something hollow, some washers, nuts, and a long bolt in the crank. There's no reason to try and hammer it in. And don't pull it in too far, either.

Couple of notes:

- There's a crank bearing not too far behind the seal, so be VERY careful not to drive the screw too deep. I would also avoid drilling and creating metal chips.

- Unless the 1100E is somehow different than other GS models: If the seal looks like it's in backwards, that's actually correct. Look on the seal for a teensy arrow indicating shaft rotation. Don't just slap the seal in the way that "looks" right -- look for the arrow and put the seal "inside out", with the metal side out. Guess how I learned this...

- I agree with the advice to order two seals just in case. They're relatively cheap.

[willie]

Thanks guys. Any advice on a better way to pull the seal than the one I described?
Willie

[eil]

I didn't have any luck trying to push mine in straight with a bolt, spacer, and washers. I ended up tapping it in very gently and evenly with a small plastic hammer. If the edge of the recess is sharp, you can lessen the chance of tearing the new seal if you put a slight chamfer on the corner of the recess.

[chuck hahn]

Piece of thick walled PVC and a steel plate drilled for the crank bolt to pass thru. Just be sure the ends of the PVC are as squared off as can be so when you start tightening the bolt it pushes straight and flat in. Put the steel plate over the PVC and slowly start screwing it in. If the pipe isnt quite flush then tweek it and proceed.

[willie]

Great idea Chuck. Thanks for the additional details. I also like Chef's idea of freezing the seal before installing it.
I think I'll use a can of Dust-off turned upside down to freeze the seal before I try pulling it out.
Can someone post a better procedure than mine for pulling the seal?