Is my crank toast? Starter gear bearing/crank damage..

[Guest]

I'm in the middle of a restomod project...if interested here's the thread (sorry for the lack of posts...slow going) http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...t=#post2154543

Currently going through a used GS1000 motor that has the 1100 Wiseco kit, ported head with Yosh cams, welded crank... Pulled the rotor the other day and noticed the following when I pulled the starter clutch off:
Sheared starter clutch bolts, rollers were all chipped up, a pin and spring were missing from behind one of the rollers, and then when I pulled the starter gear off, the outer bearing was trashed. I was planning to rebuild the starter clutch and half expected sheared bolts, but the other stuff has me worried. See the pics below...












The inner bearing on the starter gear appears undamaged and the crank turns smoothly so I'm thinking the damage was isolated to the outer starter gear bearing that part of the crank. As the pics show, the left end of the crank where the outer bearing rides is scored and lightly pitted. This is a nice welded crank that seems to be in good shape otherwise (I have the cases separated and turned all the main bearings by hand, the big end rod measurements are well within spec too). So what do you guys think...can I polish up the left end of the crank or is it burnt toast?

Spencer

[chuck hahn]

I wouldnt be too overly concerned with the crank end. What I would do is get some real fine emory cloth and sand it a little to smooth off the heavy crap. The gear bearing for sure looks toast to me.

As for the dowels, plungers and springs...still available for what the fiches say. I dont buy new springs from the dealers though. I get a pack of clicker ink pens from the Dollar General and use the springs from them....and yes they really do work great and break less than the thin OEM ones do.

http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d402c6f8700230d8b4e8d6/starter-clutch

[Sbuchert]

Thanks for the reply! ...and the link--I had noticed that the parts were still available on another parts site. And thanks for the pointer on the springs I'll try smoothing/polishing that spot on the crank this weekend and I'll post a pic of how it turns out.

Spencer

[chuck hahn]

Ever so gently and JUST JUST enough to feel that your skin on the finger isnt getting snagged as you rub over it. the gear on my 79 GS 1000s has just slight wiggle to it when I retightened then starter clutch bolts last weekend. Crank was fine even though the gear wasnt perfectly solid to the shaking I applied. I wasnt concerned at all with what I found. Buttoned her back up and rode away.

[posplayr]

Remember, it is not just all about springs and rollers. This HUB OD wears as much as the rollers and when it is gone the clutch is gone.

[Joe H]

Remember, it is not just all about springs and rollers. This HUB OD wears as much as the rollers and when it is gone the clutch is gone.

That almost 1 1/2" MM thats A LOT of wear, wouldn't you see that pretty easily?
Its amazing how bad the bearing is compared to the crank end, those cranks must be pretty hard!

[chuck hahn]

Yes the manuals says to run your fingers around to feel for notchy spots from wear and theres some service limits listed I do think.

[Nessism]

Big bore kits are hard on starter clutches. Some guys running large engines use a ignition delay system to reduce the tendency for kickback, and subsequent clutch damage.

From the looks of the photo that gear is likely going to need to be replaced. I've seen aftermarket roller and spring kits, but I'd stick with OEM Suzuki stuff over aftermarket for parts like these. The 1000G starter clutch gear inner bearing is larger than the chain drive 1000 equivalent. I used one on my first chain drive 1000 and it worked perfectly. If all the various clutch parts are thrashed to the point of needing to replace them, you may want to look into upgrading.

[posplayr]

That almost 1 1/2" MM thats A LOT of wear, wouldn't you see that pretty easily?
Its amazing how bad the bearing is compared to the crank end, those cranks must be pretty hard!

It is very easy to see with a digital caliper

[Sbuchert]

Big bore kits are hard on starter clutches. Some guys running large engines use a ignition delay system to reduce the tendency for kickback, and subsequent clutch damage.

From the looks of the photo that gear is likely going to need to be replaced. I've seen aftermarket roller and spring kits, but I'd stick with OEM Suzuki stuff over aftermarket for parts like these. The 1000G starter clutch gear inner bearing is larger than the chain drive 1000 equivalent. I used one on my first chain drive 1000 and it worked perfectly. If all the various clutch parts are thrashed to the point of needing to replace them, you may want to look into upgrading.

Thanks. I'll keep an eye out on ebay for a 1000G starter gear. I've read the thread on ignition delay to avoid starter clutch damage, and I'll definitely be wiring that in prior to starting this motor.

[posplayr]

Thanks. I'll keep an eye out on ebay for a 1000G starter gear. I've read the thread on ignition delay to avoid starter clutch damage, and I'll definitely be wiring that in prior to starting this motor.

Headlamp cutout will also help and it keeps the voltage higher during cranking.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?218985-Simple-headlamp-relay-with-start-cutout&highlight=Headlamp+cutout