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    Valve cover bolts

    I was replacing the gasket on the valve cover and ended up stripping the threads on three bolts before I quit using the torque wrench(click type). I had it adjusted to 6 ft/lbs and tested on an outer bolt on the cover. It clicked, I proceeded with the inside bolts. The first interior bolt turned tight (no click), then loosened. i left as is and set the torque wrench for 5.5 ft/lbs. Started another bolt, same thing. Reset wrench to 5 ft/lbs and turned another bolt with the same result. Frustrated, I set the wrench aside and tightened the rest with a regular socket wrench until just tight. Is there a difference between using a ft/lb wrench vs an in/lb? I was more concerned with stripping the heads than the threads and really took my time with this not to gorilla the job.

    Thanks
    Adam

    #2
    Adam, anything under 15 ft lbs, you should be using an inch lb torque wrench.
    Ray.

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      #3
      also, i tighten those to the LOW end of the value, fwiw.
      1983 GS 1100 ESD :D

      Comment


        #4
        I have no faith in a Chinese in-lb torque wrench , so I get creative.....back to basics
        Attached Files
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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          #5
          Originally posted by tom203 View Post
          I have no faith in a Chinese in-lb torque wrench , so I get creative.....back to basics
          Yeah, it could be my harbour freight torque wrench. I'm going to look into a beam style.
          -Adam

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            #6
            Sounds like some heli-coils may be in order. I doubt it was the bolts that stripped. More likely it's the threaded holes in the head.
            https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
            1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
            1981 HD XLH

            Drew's 850 L Restoration

            Drew's 83 750E Project

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              #7
              Originally posted by jsandidge View Post
              Sounds like some heli-coils may be in order. I doubt it was the bolts that stripped. More likely it's the threaded holes in the head.
              Yes, you are correct. It was the threads in the head. Are there any brands that you would recommend? -Adam

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by AdamW View Post
                Yes, you are correct. It was the threads in the head. Are there any brands that you would recommend? -Adam
                Someone more knowledgeable than myself will have to answer that one.
                https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
                1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
                1981 HD XLH

                Drew's 850 L Restoration

                Drew's 83 750E Project

                Comment


                  #9
                  Heli-Coil comes to mind, along with TimeSert.

                  As rapidray mentioned, you basically don't trust the lower 10-15% of any torque wrench, as well as about the top 5-10%.

                  I just did a valve cover last night for another member. Set the in-lb wrench (1/4" drive Harbor Freight special) to 85 (right about 7 ft-lb) and snugged them all down.

                  It's actually a bit surprising how LOW the torques setting is. I know it's a lot less than your gut feeling tells you to do.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I use my small beam torque wrench in inch pounds, never has failed me.
                    sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                    1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                    2015 CAN AM RTS


                    Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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                      #11
                      Two fingers on a small ratchet works well, go around working them tighter and tighter in a few steps so they are all even. Just enough that the bolt won't back out, you do NOT need to smash the gasket to make it seal.

                      It doesn't take much, and too loose is far better than too tight even if you don't strip threads out of the hole.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
                        I use my small beam torque wrench in inch pounds, never has failed me.

                        Where did you find a beam type inch pound wrench?
                        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                        Life is too short to ride an L.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks everyone. I'm going to chase the source of an oil leak this weekend and plan the repair for next. Hopefully I can get the parts and tools in by then. Lots of old buildup making it tough to see at this point and creates a nice smokey bike after a short ride.
                          -Adam

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I'm pretty sure it's previously been mentioned on this GS forum but I'll repeat it anyway. If the internal threads in the head for the valve/cam cover are stripped and you can't, or just don't want to install a heli-coil, try this trick.
                            Modify the length on a 1/4 x 20 SAE steel bolt to match the length of the original M6 x 1.00 metric bolt that secures the valve/cam cover. FYI, the O.D. of the threads on the 1/4 x 20 are approximately .015" to .020" larger than the M6 x 1.00. Therefore, by slowly installing the 1/4 x 20 steel bolt into the "stripped" hole on the aluminum head, the 1/4 x 20 bolt will form it's own threads into the head and the threads are reusable, if not over-tightened in the future. My 1982 GS 1100GL currently has 3 of said 1/4 x 20 steel bolts holding down the valve/cam cover. I've removed the cover once, reused the same 1/4 x 20 bolts and they tighten about the same as the original M6 bolts.
                            just saying!
                            sbmisajw

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