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82 GS750E ?s I am now scared

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    #16
    Originally posted by gs650mann View Post
    How do I fix???
    Ask Reno Bruce.

    Ed
    GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
    GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
    GSX-R750Y (Sold)

    my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

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      #17
      Thicker oil will build pressure better, I would run 15w-40 Shell rotella if it was mine.

      Comment


        #18
        Do most of u think it will be OK? to like 50k if its maintained...i really dont want to sell it


        And would the 15W-40 be better IN THIS bike over the T6 rotella
        Last edited by Guest; 05-23-2015, 01:25 PM.

        Comment


          #19
          There is no guarantee on any motor, but with proper maintenance it should last well past 50,000. Ride it and enjoy it.

          I would Use the Shell 15-40 Rotella.

          BTW here is a link to an oil pressure gage on Ebay. There easy to install. http://ebay.com/itm/suzuki-gs1100-gs...5a3442&vxp=mtr
          Last edited by Guest; 05-23-2015, 02:04 PM.

          Comment


            #20
            If I had one of those bikes I'd do the oil pressure relief spring mod ASAP. There are a LOT of those engines that suffered oil related failures: spun crank bearings, scored cams/rockers, and completely wiped out heads/cranks. Do a search and check for threads in the archives if you don't believe me. Also talk to someone like blowerbike (Terry), I believe he worked in the business for many years and will tell you the straight dope.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #21
              Look, I used to road race the plain bearing 750s & they are DIFFICULT to make live in anything other than a docile street life. Even then they can spin bearings & eat rocker arms & cams because the oiling system on THAT engine is a BAD DESIGN! Your bike looks to be in great shape so ride it till it spins a bearing, or eats the cams or rocker arms, & then BOLT in an 1100 or 1150 motor. Then you WILL have a bullet proof engine & will be HAPPY with the results!
              Ray.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                Look, I used to road race the plain bearing 750s & they are DIFFICULT to make live in anything other than a docile street life. Even then they can spin bearings & eat rocker arms & cams because the oiling system on THAT engine is a BAD DESIGN! Your bike looks to be in great shape so ride it till it spins a bearing, or eats the cams or rocker arms, & then BOLT in an 1100 or 1150 motor. Then you WILL have a bullet proof engine & will be HAPPY with the results!
                Ray.

                And with he will have a built in $50 discount against his future 1100 purchase (750 oil pump gears)

                Comment


                  #23
                  [QUOTE=gs650mann;2186353]Do most of u think it will be OK? to like 50k if its maintained...i really dont want to sell it

                  Run Shell Rotella 10w/30 or 15w/40, change oil & filter every 1500/2000 miles and you will get many years & miles out of it!! Don't worry about what some idiot at a bike night might say!!! The folks here on GSR know a lot more!!
                  sigpicIt wasnt me! I didnt do it! You cant prove anything!
                  82 1100EZ :dancing:

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Gosh speaking of idiots a guy went to buy my buddies Concours last week and started to try and beat him down by saying that I4 engines were on the way out and passe. Said the new twinslike in the Honda 750 were the wave of the future.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                      Thicker oil will build pressure better, I would run 15w-40 Shell rotella if it was mine.
                      True, but it's not pressure that lubricates the engine.

                      What lubricates the engine is VOLUME. When the pump provides more volume than the lubrication passages can handle, pressure builds up. If you were to totally block the entrance of the oil passages, your pressure would be WONDERFUL, but with no oil getting to the bearings, your engine life will be dramatically SHORT.

                      Unless you live in, and only operate the bike in, a warm climate, I would use something with a smaller number on the front of the viscosity rating. The thinner oil (10w-whatever or 5w-whatever) will flow easier when the engine first starts up, which is when most of the engine wear occurs.

                      Originally posted by GDT1960 View Post
                      Run Shell Rotella 10w/30 or 15w/40, change oil & filter every 1500/2000 miles and you will get many years & miles out of it!! Don't worry about what some idiot at a bike night might say!!! The folks here on GSR know a lot more!!
                      Well, MOST of them know better, but I would not trust advice from somebody who recommends 30-weight oil.

                      Yes, 30-weight oil will flow easier, but there are limits to what it can do to protect the bearings. Suzuki recommended 10w-40 for a reason. Oils have gotten a bit better over the years, but there is still a difference between 30- and 40-weight oil.

                      My personal preference would be Rotella T6 synthetic, which is 5w-40.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Steve,
                        Before you posted this, I was contemplating the point you made but was not willing to interject such a comment as I was unsure. Now that you boldly claimed what I was initially thinking(but unsure), I took a few moments to think and research it and now write a response

                        Originally posted by Steve View Post
                        True, but it's not pressure that lubricates the engine.
                        .
                        If you mean gauge pressure that might be true. However as I'll describe below, I'm starting to conclude that it is a direct indicator of lubrication for an OEM designed lubrications system, other than your blocked lubrication example, for a given system, if there is higher gauge pressure then there is higher bearing pressure. This would include higher pressure due to changing pressure 1.) pump gears, 2.) increased viscosity, 3.) higher pump flow rate,

                        Originally posted by Steve View Post
                        What lubricates the engine is VOLUME. When the pump provides more volume than the lubrication passages can handle, pressure builds up. If you were to totally block the entrance of the oil passages, your pressure would be WONDERFUL, but with no oil getting to the bearings, your engine life will be dramatically SHORT.
                        .

                        This statement is correct in some respects, but as stated tends to be misleading. Increased flow rate, increases pressure, which is does provide increased lubrication. In your example, you have drastically altered the lubrication system so the pressure reading means something different entirely and I don't see how it is really relevant other than to indicate that you have to do an analysis of how gauge pressure and hydrostatic pressure are related.

                        See the link from Wikipedia below. Lubrications systems of Class I.

                        A hydrostatic bearing is lubricated by static pressure at the bearing between the journal and the bearing. So the question becomes what is the relationship between the bearing pressure and the gauge pressure for what is essentially a system with many parallel paths to the various portions of the engine requiring lubrication (some bearing some not).

                        Electrical analogies work very well in describing hydraulic flows and pressure drops. The first order linear models directly account for "dynamic fluid viscosity". For the moment the complexity of multi viscosity oils is not clear, but it probably has the expected effect of changing all of the flow resistance value in proportion to the viscosity.

                        Assuming you do not alter the flow by adding additional paths you can assume that if at the gauge you have lower pressure than before, there will be lower pressure any place downstream in direct proportion to the ratio prior to the change. I think this would apply equally as well to changes due to oil type and or viscosity.

                        For a given system, gauge pressure, hydrostatic bearing pressure and flow rate are all linked. If you increase flow using pump gears for example, you can be assured with no other changes that all quantities will increase.


                        Fluid lubrication[edit]


                        See also: Fluid bearing
                        Fluid lubrication results in a full-film or a boundary condition lubrication mode. A properly designed bearing system reduces friction by eliminating surface-to-surface contact between the journal and bearing through fluid dynamic effects.
                        Fluid bearings can be hydrostatically or hydrodynamically lubricated. Hydrostatically lubricated bearings are lubricated by an external pump which always keeps a static amount of pressure. In a hydrodynamic bearing the pressure in the oil film is maintained by the rotation of the journal. Hydrostatic bearings enter a hydrodynamic state when the journal is rotating.[11]Hydrostatic bearings usually use oil, while hydrodynamic bearings can use oil or grease, however bearings can be designed to use whatever fluid is available, and several pump designs use the pumped fluid as a lubricant.[citation needed]

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Or just put Rotella in the engine and ride it forever, or until you blow some bearing or something and put the 1100 engine in...

                          It's all good.
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Pos, what I was trying to say was that putting in thicker (higher viscosity number) oil to increase the number on the pressure gauge would not do anything to improve lubrication. On the other hand, the thicker oil will not flow as easily, which might DEcrease lubrication.

                            Sorry if the drastic alteration of the system confused you, I was just trying to point out how pointless an absolute pressure reading can be, in some situations.

                            .
                            sigpic
                            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                            Family Portrait
                            Siblings and Spouses
                            Mom's first ride
                            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by Steve View Post
                              Pos, what I was trying to say was that putting in thicker (higher viscosity number) oil to increase the number on the pressure gauge would not do anything to improve lubrication. On the other hand, the thicker oil will not flow as easily, which might DEcrease lubrication.

                              Sorry if the drastic alteration of the system confused you, I was just trying to point out how pointless an absolute pressure reading can be, in some situations.

                              .
                              I got that point, but I think the exact opposite is the case. Gauge pressure is monotonically increasing with increasing bearing pressure under a increase in viscosity. In other words if you put thicker oil into the engine, and the gauge pressure goes up, then there is more pressure at the bearing.From your analysis it may seem counterintuitive, as the the resistance of the system to flow is higher with higher viscosity which would make one think that the bearing pressure is lower. However, from the electrical analogy if gauge pressure is higher than bearing pressure also has to be higher. The explanation must be that the pump generates more pressure as it has less pressure loss from high viscosity.

                              The fundamental point is that just like a voltmeter would measure potential reflecting voltage all around your electrical system (regardless of the losses downstream), the gauge pressure is the equivalent and when it goes up all other pressures have to go up as well.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                The pressure is actually built by the clearance between the rotating assemblies and the bearings. True the pump provides pressure, but really it is flow. To tight a clearance and you will have a higher pressure and lack of lubrication. To large a clearance and you will have a lower pressure, then the oil film will be too large and knock knock, not good.

                                Volume of oil passages are also part of the formula, but they have nothing to do with building the pressure in the engine. The passages ensure an adequate volume for lubrication, as part of the overall system design.

                                The manufacturer provides the specific clearances between the rotating assemblies, maintain those and provide a larger VOLUME pump and all will be good, engine will be happy and last long time.
                                1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
                                1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D

                                I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

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