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82 GS750E ?s I am now scared
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gearhead13
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zuzu
There is no guarantee on any motor, but with proper maintenance it should last well past 50,000. Ride it and enjoy it.
I would Use the Shell 15-40 Rotella.
BTW here is a link to an oil pressure gage on Ebay. There easy to install. http://ebay.com/itm/suzuki-gs1100-gs...5a3442&vxp=mtrLast edited by Guest; 05-23-2015, 02:04 PM.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35694
- Torrance, CA
If I had one of those bikes I'd do the oil pressure relief spring mod ASAP. There are a LOT of those engines that suffered oil related failures: spun crank bearings, scored cams/rockers, and completely wiped out heads/cranks. Do a search and check for threads in the archives if you don't believe me. Also talk to someone like blowerbike (Terry), I believe he worked in the business for many years and will tell you the straight dope.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Look, I used to road race the plain bearing 750s & they are DIFFICULT to make live in anything other than a docile street life. Even then they can spin bearings & eat rocker arms & cams because the oiling system on THAT engine is a BAD DESIGN! Your bike looks to be in great shape so ride it till it spins a bearing, or eats the cams or rocker arms, & then BOLT in an 1100 or 1150 motor. Then you WILL have a bullet proof engine & will be HAPPY with the results!
Ray.
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Originally posted by rapidray View PostLook, I used to road race the plain bearing 750s & they are DIFFICULT to make live in anything other than a docile street life. Even then they can spin bearings & eat rocker arms & cams because the oiling system on THAT engine is a BAD DESIGN! Your bike looks to be in great shape so ride it till it spins a bearing, or eats the cams or rocker arms, & then BOLT in an 1100 or 1150 motor. Then you WILL have a bullet proof engine & will be HAPPY with the results!
Ray.
And with he will have a built in $50 discount against his future 1100 purchase (750 oil pump gears)
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[QUOTE=gs650mann;2186353]Do most of u think it will be OK? to like 50k if its maintained...i really dont want to sell it
Run Shell Rotella 10w/30 or 15w/40, change oil & filter every 1500/2000 miles and you will get many years & miles out of it!! Don't worry about what some idiot at a bike night might say!!! The folks here on GSR know a lot more!!sigpicIt wasnt me! I didnt do it! You cant prove anything!
82 1100EZ :dancing:
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JEEPRUSTY
Gosh speaking of idiots a guy went to buy my buddies Concours last week and started to try and beat him down by saying that I4 engines were on the way out and passe. Said the new twinslike in the Honda 750 were the wave of the future.
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Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostThicker oil will build pressure better, I would run 15w-40 Shell rotella if it was mine.
What lubricates the engine is VOLUME. When the pump provides more volume than the lubrication passages can handle, pressure builds up. If you were to totally block the entrance of the oil passages, your pressure would be WONDERFUL, but with no oil getting to the bearings, your engine life will be dramatically SHORT.
Unless you live in, and only operate the bike in, a warm climate, I would use something with a smaller number on the front of the viscosity rating. The thinner oil (10w-whatever or 5w-whatever) will flow easier when the engine first starts up, which is when most of the engine wear occurs.
Originally posted by GDT1960 View PostRun Shell Rotella 10w/30 or 15w/40, change oil & filter every 1500/2000 miles and you will get many years & miles out of it!! Don't worry about what some idiot at a bike night might say!!! The folks here on GSR know a lot more!!
Yes, 30-weight oil will flow easier, but there are limits to what it can do to protect the bearings. Suzuki recommended 10w-40 for a reason. Oils have gotten a bit better over the years, but there is still a difference between 30- and 40-weight oil.
My personal preference would be Rotella T6 synthetic, which is 5w-40.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Steve,
Before you posted this, I was contemplating the point you made but was not willing to interject such a comment as I was unsure. Now that you boldly claimed what I was initially thinking(but unsure), I took a few moments to think and research it and now write a response
Originally posted by Steve View PostTrue, but it's not pressure that lubricates the engine.
.
Originally posted by Steve View PostWhat lubricates the engine is VOLUME. When the pump provides more volume than the lubrication passages can handle, pressure builds up. If you were to totally block the entrance of the oil passages, your pressure would be WONDERFUL, but with no oil getting to the bearings, your engine life will be dramatically SHORT.
.
This statement is correct in some respects, but as stated tends to be misleading. Increased flow rate, increases pressure, which is does provide increased lubrication. In your example, you have drastically altered the lubrication system so the pressure reading means something different entirely and I don't see how it is really relevant other than to indicate that you have to do an analysis of how gauge pressure and hydrostatic pressure are related.
See the link from Wikipedia below. Lubrications systems of Class I.
A hydrostatic bearing is lubricated by static pressure at the bearing between the journal and the bearing. So the question becomes what is the relationship between the bearing pressure and the gauge pressure for what is essentially a system with many parallel paths to the various portions of the engine requiring lubrication (some bearing some not).
Electrical analogies work very well in describing hydraulic flows and pressure drops. The first order linear models directly account for "dynamic fluid viscosity". For the moment the complexity of multi viscosity oils is not clear, but it probably has the expected effect of changing all of the flow resistance value in proportion to the viscosity.
Assuming you do not alter the flow by adding additional paths you can assume that if at the gauge you have lower pressure than before, there will be lower pressure any place downstream in direct proportion to the ratio prior to the change. I think this would apply equally as well to changes due to oil type and or viscosity.
For a given system, gauge pressure, hydrostatic bearing pressure and flow rate are all linked. If you increase flow using pump gears for example, you can be assured with no other changes that all quantities will increase.
Fluid lubrication[edit]
Fluid lubrication results in a full-film or a boundary condition lubrication mode. A properly designed bearing system reduces friction by eliminating surface-to-surface contact between the journal and bearing through fluid dynamic effects.
See also: Fluid bearing
Fluid bearings can be hydrostatically or hydrodynamically lubricated. Hydrostatically lubricated bearings are lubricated by an external pump which always keeps a static amount of pressure. In a hydrodynamic bearing the pressure in the oil film is maintained by the rotation of the journal. Hydrostatic bearings enter a hydrodynamic state when the journal is rotating.[11]Hydrostatic bearings usually use oil, while hydrodynamic bearings can use oil or grease, however bearings can be designed to use whatever fluid is available, and several pump designs use the pumped fluid as a lubricant.[citation needed]
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Pos, what I was trying to say was that putting in thicker (higher viscosity number) oil to increase the number on the pressure gauge would not do anything to improve lubrication. On the other hand, the thicker oil will not flow as easily, which might DEcrease lubrication.
Sorry if the drastic alteration of the system confused you, I was just trying to point out how pointless an absolute pressure reading can be, in some situations.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
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Originally posted by Steve View PostPos, what I was trying to say was that putting in thicker (higher viscosity number) oil to increase the number on the pressure gauge would not do anything to improve lubrication. On the other hand, the thicker oil will not flow as easily, which might DEcrease lubrication.
Sorry if the drastic alteration of the system confused you, I was just trying to point out how pointless an absolute pressure reading can be, in some situations.
.
The fundamental point is that just like a voltmeter would measure potential reflecting voltage all around your electrical system (regardless of the losses downstream), the gauge pressure is the equivalent and when it goes up all other pressures have to go up as well.
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The pressure is actually built by the clearance between the rotating assemblies and the bearings. True the pump provides pressure, but really it is flow. To tight a clearance and you will have a higher pressure and lack of lubrication. To large a clearance and you will have a lower pressure, then the oil film will be too large and knock knock, not good.
Volume of oil passages are also part of the formula, but they have nothing to do with building the pressure in the engine. The passages ensure an adequate volume for lubrication, as part of the overall system design.
The manufacturer provides the specific clearances between the rotating assemblies, maintain those and provide a larger VOLUME pump and all will be good, engine will be happy and last long time.1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head :cool:
1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017:D
I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.
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