Correct clutch cable for clip ons?

[Grimly]

This is ringing a bell with me; I had an aftermarket cable that did this - the inner expanded more than the outer when hot, to an unacceptable degree. Normally, expansion would affect the outer and inner at the same rate, so adjustment is unaffected once the cable has settled in, but some of the cheaper cables are probably made of slightly wrong materials for this application.
I think I replaced it with OEM or a better make, in the end.
Tip; OEM and decent aftermarket cables have a mid-length adjuster halfway along the cable. Adjustment of that is important, and the cheapy ones don't have it.

[claygs750e]

Maybe I will try that because the fibers and steel measured within spec, I've replaced the clutch OEM springs, filed the slight grooves in the basket so all of that looks good. There's definitely a big difference in how it shifts once the bike is warm. Any recommendations on cables or a good place that has them?

[Grimly]

I just double-checked that your '80 750 would have the mid-length adjuster; if this is your model, you can see the adjuster halfway down it...

http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40079f8700230d8b4e2b1/handlebar

I suppose partsoutlaw is as good a place as any for OEM, but I've not dealt with them, being on a different continent.

[claygs750e]

Check out the first picture in this thread and you will see I will for sure need a aftermarket clutch cable. I measured and it's 46-48 inches in length so I will search for an aftermarket cable with the middle adjuster and maybe this will help. My only issue with this is that it is a fairly new cable when I got the clips ons, and I had this issue with the stock cable when the bike was still stock....I'm just reaching for a solution and don't really want to spend 100+ on plates and fibers if I don't need to.

[Grimly]

Oh yes, of course.
A lot of the Euro-market GS models had flatter bars than the US-market ones, and I wonder if the same clutch cable was used on them, or Suzuki supplied a shorter one.
From your pic, there's a question - which side of the headstock is the cable routed? Istr trouble being caused by the wrong choice there.
That aside, the clutch action being ok when the engine thoroughly warms up is a huge clue, but of what?
If the cable inner gets hot and expands, it would become harder to select gears, because of lost motion. If the cable outer expands too much, the action would become easier, but if you adjust it then, it will revert to being difficult when it cools down again.
Otoh, it might be thermally related, but nothing to do with the cable at all. Dorkburger's suggestion of jiggery-pokery by a PO in the clutch basket is worth pursuing. That there's no sign of it being apart previously is no indication of much - a missing shim is the kind of thing that's all too common, with some people having mysterious parts left over after a repair.

[ShadowFocus603]

The Katana 550M clutch cable is the one I have seen recommended in the past for this situation.

[limeex2]

An 82-83 1000 Katana has clip on's, same set up on motor.

[claygs750e]

Ok so I found a clutch cable for a 1982 Suzuki GS1000S that looks very similar and has clipons...do you think this would work?

While I'm going to buy something it's a little off topic, but I want to buy a gas cap, but the round syyle instead of what the stock one uses for the E model. Do you know if any gs gas cap will work?

[Rob S.]

Ok so I found a clutch cable for a 1982 Suzuki GS1000S that looks very similar and has clipons...do you think this would work?

Didn't you say you were having the same shifting problems before you installed the current bars and cable?

[claygs750e]

The bike was given to me and I literally rode it for a couple hours after it sat for 5 years so the cable, oil, ect was old. I started tearing the bike down shortly after so its hard to say since it had 5 yr oil in it.

[claygs750e]

One thing I am curious about. In the picture that is attached, is #21 supposed to be loose when putting the cover back on? I do remember it being really loose, but thinking it was normal since there was only one way to put it back together. I wonder could it have went to far in and grabbed one less tooth and is not pulling it far enough out?




this is exactly what mine does, is this normal?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo6PJ4xpJbQ

[claygs750e]

SO I removed the basket agaain last night and everything apears to be in really good condition. I adjusted the cable to get as on the shaft as possible, but after riding it this morning it's still the same thing. I've noticed that its always harder to shift into 2nd gear and after about 15 mins everything is much better? WHat am I missing here?

[hillsy]

Try taking the arm off the spline and moving it clockwise a notch or two. Looks like you have enough room on the adjuster threads to adjust the cable out.

[huntb]

I've had this exact same problem on my 650E since I bought it a year ago. Just got new fibers in the mail yesterday and will have them installed tonight or tomorrow night. The clutch working better when warm, in my oppinion, is from the viscosity of the oil when warm. My guess is that the fibers are old and crappy from sitting and the cold oil keeps them stuck together. One way I tested this was to start the bike and when cold, I put the front end up against a wall in my garage and gave some throttle while in first gear to "break" the plates apart. This worked for me so I'm 95% positive its the plates. Hopefully the new fibers help and I don't have to buy new steels too

[claygs750e]

I moved the spline clockwise until it would not move any longer when I put the lever on. I think it has enough pull because after 10-20 mins it shifts ok.