who's replaced their cam chain?

[DimitriT]

I noticed my timing mark is a bit off compared to the exhaust cam position and I guess it must be stretch in the cam chain.

The bike has 43K miles and although it runs well I'm wondering at what point I should consider replacing it.

How tough a job is this? Do I need to strip down the top end or is it just a matter of removing the cams.

Where do I find a replacement chain?

How many links is the cam chain?

Can I get a master link for it?

Just gathering information for a future winter project.

[eil]

Crack open your factory service manual (if you've misplaced yours, you can download another here: http://www.mtsac.edu/%7Ecliff/storag..._77-82_all.pdf) and look for the section on timing. There's illustrations, instructions, and service limit measurements that will tell you if it's time for its time for a new chain. I would doubt that it needs to be replaced, though, they usually last the life of the engine.

But to answer some of your questions directly:

There are aftermarket cam chains with a master link but I believe these are discouraged by mechanics with a whole lot more experience than me. So to get an endless chain installed the whole engine needs to come apart because you need to split the cases.

[tom203]

"I noticed my timing mark is a bit off compared to the exhaust cam position and "

can you post a pic of camshaft marks with crankshaft at TDC mark? I'm skeptical that your chain has stretched that much.

here's a pic for reference , though you might need to,show how mark 1 looks

[gustovh]

I replace a cam chain with one using a master link that had to be peened. I used a very small ball peen hammer with a back up hammer on the other side, just peen the edges with a dimple all the way around. That was 20,000 miles ago.

But that said, if it measures good, you don't have to replace.

V

[John Park]

I replace a cam chain with one using a master link that had to be peened. I used a very small ball peen hammer with a back up hammer on the other side, just peen the edges with a dimple all the way around. That was 20,000 miles ago.

But that said, if it measures good, you don't have to replace.

V

Another method is to just weld the pin to the side plate; while there's theoretically no side load, I've seen a peened one come apart and you can imagine the carnage.

[tkent02]

How would you do this weld?

[John Park]

How would you do this weld?

Properly.

I'm not a welder, primarily because I've known great welders and they know massive amounts of stuff I've never even realized there is to know. I don't do dentistry either.

All you would seem to need to do is get enough on the end of the pins that they won't push through, but not some huge glob that will take a round out of the chain guides. I've watched it done; it's nothing exotic, but don't ask me how. One thing I'd be sure of is to run the ground to the chain itself so you don't run the current through the rest of the motor. I guess it's what you would refer to as a tack weld, not an attack weld.

[DimitriT]

What's wrong with a rivet link? You might need to peen in down a little to make sure it clears everything. A properly done rivet link seems pretty strong.

[Nessism]

To measure is to know. Listen to eil and crack open your service manual. Guessing sucks but if forced too, I'd say there is minimal chance your chain is worn out in 45k.

[tkent02]

I've had several go over 100,000 abusive miles and still be in spec. Of course if the PO ran it out of oil at some point, who knows?

[DimitriT]

I dug up the service limit. It says 20 pitch length at 6.213 inches. I'm guessing that's the same as measuring between the #3 and #2 arrows on the cams. Next time I have the valve cover off I'll put my caliper to use.

[qcktvr]

Good morning,
sounds like you have quite a few miles on it, likely more than the timing chain would not measure "as new".
The front chain guide will also have worn and make a shorter path between the crank and exhaust cam...
Are you seeing a noticeable drop in performance?? If you are, then I think it would more likely be related to pistons or valves, assuming ignition and fuel side okay...
My bottom line if running good would be to stop worrying, ride and enjoy.. Mine is almost back together again after toooo much work to try and fix an oil leak..
Good luck

[MotoMedic]

I recently picked up an '81 550T whose cam chain is actually broken; one end is hanging off the intake cam gear, I'm guessing the other end is bunched up in the block. I've been trying to source replacement once from K&L and one other place, and nowhere I've looked has replacement chains for the 550 specifically; does anyone know if a chain for a 500, 650, or 750 will fit?

[dorkburger]

I recently picked up an '81 550T whose cam chain is actually broken; one end is hanging off the intake cam gear, I'm guessing the other end is bunched up in the block. I've been trying to source replacement once from K&L and one other place, and nowhere I've looked has replacement chains for the 550 specifically; does anyone know if a chain for a 500, 650, or 750 will fit?

You likely have a whole lot more to worry about then just sourcing a chain.... As in the likelihood of bent valves. Have you checked them?

[Nessism]

I recently picked up an '81 550T whose cam chain is actually broken; one end is hanging off the intake cam gear, I'm guessing the other end is bunched up in the block. I've been trying to source replacement once from K&L and one other place, and nowhere I've looked has replacement chains for the 550 specifically; does anyone know if a chain for a 500, 650, or 750 will fit?

Suzuki still offers that chain. Order from your favorite parts source, either online or local.

Part# 12760-17D01 Desc CHAIN,CAMSHAFT

116 links.