How to part the cylinder head from the cylinders - stuck gasket - 1980 gs550e

[ukjules]

Head returned today. A fabulous job. mirror finish dead flat.
They also sorted all the threads and cleaned out the ports (inlet and exhaust)

Head rebuild started tonight and all valves in with new oil seals ! they came with my
cheap top end gasket set i am trialing.

I am missing one cylinder to head dowel so i am stopped for getting it running this weekend. damn.
Ill have to order one unless someone on here has one ?? ?

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs550-1980-et_model13479/partslist/FIG-02.html#results

part number 10

Jules

[ukjules]

It could be today that the bike goes again.
I think a full 10 hour day will do it ..

Head on (all back together now with new seals and lapped valves), cams on, oil pan removal, valve clearances,
carbs set and synced, timing, air filter .........
Ill upload a video - of the first start up.

[Cyrano]

Hope you have a good day, Jules. Good Luck!

[ukjules]

Yesterday turned out to be a "Clean everything up day" and awaiting the one
locating dowel through the post for the cylinder head (i ruined one).

All screw threads cleaned out - a very very good engineer chap i used to know told me to always do this
as you can get more torque on the bolt with clean threads.
I religiously do that now to all threads and since then I have never stripped one .....
it gives me comfort to know the threads are in perfect condition on these old bikes.

everything is forensically clean now and ready to go. Just off to get the oil
and hope the posty bring that dowel.

Full analysis will be posted down to a full compression test wet and dry to see
what type of engine i am now dealing with.
Remember i have used the cheapest possible top end gasket set (athena) but have
done the best possible surface cleaning up (head skimmed to perfection and cylinder
is 0.002" out ok with a gasket. I am prepared to gamble for knowledge
if this works. The quality of the gasket set to be honest i am impressed with.

the weather here is superb - it is a disgrace i am not out there on the bike.

[ukjules]

Bike all together bar the exhausts and the usual impossible problem and poor design of the carb inlet box
and rubbers attaching to carbs.

The only big issue that is stopping me driving into the sunset in 30 minutes is the single valve
clearance that I cannot put my 0.003mm gauge into.
(I have nothing less - but have ordered a 0.002mm set of guages just in case it is slightly out)

the issue is I dont know and cant tell what the gap is. Even if there is one.
is there a fools way to find out if there is a gap of any kind ?
If it was 0.002 i would start it up but less i would not.

(Ill open another thread on the airbox rubber attaching to thre carbs)

J

[hampshirehog]

If you can spin the shim easily you have a gap. If it won't spin you haven't.

[ukjules]

In the end as i could not spin shim round i put in a 2p piece !

From that (i calculated the 2p thickness at 1.8mm) i found a gap and from that i could tell what was required !
We are talking now - 1.9 - 1.95mm shim required. Way out of spec - but i am forced to do this.

they dont make em that size but i found a firm local that have a shim grinding machine.
they can do them while i wait. from any thickness to whatever i so please.

useful to know this and i will risk as the shim are hard all the way through.

[ukjules]

Stop the press ! I started the bike for first time and went out on the road. Did 2 wonderful miles at 30mph
in 6th gear.
A lot to inform of and a question:

- Shim issus sorted (one needed to be below spec - had to do it) - got one ground down by a eng company with special machine - costs few pounds.
Now i have it working i might now, the bike is mechanically sound with no stripped threads etc - remove head and grind a valve down properly later in year.
- Exhaust collets too tight - cut them in half, ground them down a bit to smooth off and replaced.
Now the exhaust fit perfectly and seal the gasket for the first time in 5 years perfectly.
(Thanks to member who told me that one - it has transformed working on the bike)
- Timing set
- valve clearances set within limits
-Valve lapping done by me
- new valve seals
- carbs set to 2 1/4 turns on idle
- TO DO Carbs sync (not set yet but will do that soon - needs doing.
- Using the cheap gasket set (athena) - I will add to this later - but it generally is ok - with perfect surface preparation.
I will add to this as this is important.
I used the old oil filter gasket, valve conver gasket - no leaks. might need a tighten soon of course.
- To Do Compression test and ill post results to see what engine i have now

Before my sledge madness , the bike smoked at start up when cold, used oil, had a poor exhaust gasket seal
and i could go on and on.

Now the engine sounds like a new bike back in the 1980's. tight , smooth, no smoke.

I am going to take it easy and do about 20 miles slow today
then oil and filter change again.

How far and how do I run in a new cylinder (same pistons and rings), new different head.


-

[tkent02]

Run it hard. But read this first.....

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[ukjules]

I am pretty forensic when it comes to what I have done on the bike but I will have to take
it easy as I am concerned about debris in the oil. I am 99.9% sure now I am ok but
it is not in me to go hard this rebuild.

For this reason i will take it easy for 20 miles. oil change and filter and then again take it easy.

Madly i rarely go over 6000 revs !! even when it was going last ! to save the dear bikes delicate
engine. I expect this is madness.
I was ovetaken by a horse once ..

Right the sun is shining , the bike is ready - cruise time ! this is what it is all about - riding it

[tkent02]

Really just read the article. You don't have to do it if you don't want to but in 200,000 miles I have never seen any damage to any 550 by whipping the **** out of it. The higher RPM just doesn't hurt them. Tiny pistons and a really short stroke, it just doesn't matter how fast.

Don't think I've ever ran mine at less than 6,000 RPM. Hell it doesn't even start to make power until after 6,000.

[hampshirehog]

Like Tom said, don't worry about caning the backside off it; that engine us tougher than very old boots and loves revs.

[ukjules]

I will increase and do as you say. I have never hammered it.
After another oil change and filter earlier I am convinced the motor is not
full of metal and behaving normally.
In fact the oil was spotless as was the sump.
Question:
I have a very odd issue that seems at first hand to be engine related. Read on and it simply cannot be:

There is a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the front of the tank.
If you put your ear on the tank - it is loud and clear as if something is tapping the tank.

Now I am sure people will say its valves, valve clearances, can chanin ........ BUT

This sound was exactly the same 2 weeks ago with my other engine !!!!

If I take the tank off and run no ticking.

What under the tank can make this happen ?
I am convinced someone else must have had this issue before when it simply cannot
be the engine.
If i grab hold of the tank or pull it up the ticking continues.
Can the coils make this ?

if i take a screwdriver and put that and my ear to the scredriver to the engine in various places
no odd sounds !! no ticking on the head ?

Help I am flummoxed ?

[tkent02]

Could it be a spark jumping from the coil to the tank?

[ukjules]

Tomorrow i will pull off tank and investigate.

What you suggest feels like what i thought it was (but with my knowledge of electrics didnt
know it was possible)

I am plain dumb with electrics.
Would i just make sure connections are tight etc and try again.
I can imagine they are loose etc.
How can i eliminate this from the equation ?

J