Ward Oil Pan Suzuki GS1100-GS1150

[Guest]

Has anyone used the "Ward Oil Pan Suzuki GS1100-GS1150" from Schnitz?

Last race I ran wide on the last turn of the last lap and sheared off my oil catch pan. On the way out from under the sidecar, it damaged some fins and cracked the oil pan. Was thinking this might be sturdier should I ever do that again.

[gs1197]

FYI....Ward pan is very shallow if oil capacity is an issue.

[Kyler]

FYI....Ward pan is very shallow if oil capacity is an issue.

good to know. Yes, capacity is an issue.

[rapidray]

Just machine the fins off the stock pan. It will have less likelihood of catching anything. You can also use an oring boss allen plug for the drain bolt.
Ray.

[Kyler]

Just machine the fins off the stock pan. It will have less likelihood of catching anything. You can also use an oring boss allen plug for the drain bolt.
Ray.

yup - been wanting to try machining aluminum with my old router and a carbide bit. Will try it first on the busted pan.

[storm 64]

Ken, just be careful playing with that Router. You don't want it to grab and rip out of your hands... If you want, I can mill you down a smoothie using the one I have. Just send me your good one. Private message me for more information if you're interested.

[GregT]

Do you have to fit an oil catch tray ? Is ground clearance an issue ?
FWIW the modern chair motors I have done lately are using a sheet metal baffle covering the whole area of the lower pan.
There are cutaways for the pickup and anything sticking down like the pressure relief valve. Also a number of holes for drainback in crucial spots.
Usually below the rear of the crank, if there's a case bulkhead there, placed so as to accept runoff from the bulkhead.
Holes are usually around 20mm dia. Note - none around the side...
Idea is to hold as much around the pickup when under sideways G. It does appear to work...

[Kyler]

Ken, just be careful playing with that Router. You don't want it to grab and rip out of your hands... If you want, I can mill you down a smoothie using the one I have. Just send me your good one. Private message me for more information if you're interested.

PM coming your way. Need to get a new oil pan first.

Do you have to fit an oil catch tray ? Is ground clearance an issue ?
FWIW the modern chair motors I have done lately are using a sheet metal baffle covering the whole area of the lower pan.
There are cutaways for the pickup and anything sticking down like the pressure relief valve. Also a number of holes for drainback in crucial spots.
Usually below the rear of the crank, if there's a case bulkhead there, placed so as to accept runoff from the bulkhead.
Holes are usually around 20mm dia. Note - none around the side...
Idea is to hold as much around the pickup when under sideways G. It does appear to work...

Yes I have to have something to catch oil. I do loose about 1/4" of clearance but that is okay.

My motor sticks between the lower tubes so a flat tray won't work. I haven't had any oiling issues and maintain nice pressure through the big turns so I'm pretty comfortable with my setup.

[trippivot]

this is what I have done- the only hang up is that the bolt heads on your oil pan become the lowest point - the cool part of the ward pan/cover is they are counter sunk into the pan making a smooth flat surface.

Just machine the fins off the stock pan. It will have less likelihood of catching anything. You can also use an oring boss allen plug for the drain bolt.
Ray.

[Kyler]

this is what I have done- the only hang up is that the bolt heads on your oil pan become the lowest point - the cool part of the ward pan/cover is they are counter sunk into the pan making a smooth flat surface.

I'm going to change my drip pan design so that it is more resistant to shear. That will help. Better answer is to quit running wide and/or off track!

[storm 64]

The use of Button head screws might help. Or counter bore the holes shouldn't be that hard to do. When I get home tonight I'll see what exactly is involved to make everything flush.