No power to rear wheel. Not the hub splines. HELP

[tom203]

The 650 shafties just use the crankcase oil to lubricate the secondary drive gears. There is a drain hole if you want to drain the small amount of oil that doesn't drift back to the main cavity.

[jchaplick21]

Fair enough. Sounds Like a thorough job. It well may be in thte secondary then. I think the manual will walk you through removing the tire and swing arm. Then you are loosening the bolts which hold the cases together near the secondary to release some of the clamping force the cases have on the output chunk. At the point the chunk still won't quite clear the frame, so removing the rear mounting bolts and loosening most of the front ones allows the back of the engine to be tilted up a hair with a pry bar, jack, or hoist. At that point the output piece should come out with very gentle coaxing. From there you can examine the gear set.

Good Luck!

Where exactly are the bolts to release tention? I have the entire rear end taken down, but I cant get the secondary to budge even a little. It doesnt look like I am going to have to tilt the frame on the 650, there doesnt SEEM to be a clearance issue. But like I said, I cant get the secondary to budge at all, I must be doing the release of tention incorrectly.

[60ratrod]

they are talking about loosening the case perimeter bolts around the secondary drive. you don't need to loosen them all, just enough to give you some wiggle on that thing

[jchaplick21]

Ok, after that, if I pull on the drive shaft (I have that removed but Im not sure what to call the remaining piece thats there) the secondary drive should just pull free?

[tom203]

Even with crankcase bolts loosened, it's likely to fight you- probably have to pry it loose. Mark the existing orientation of bearing housing (part #16) on a crankcase half for fitup later and note shims that come off. This was a precision fitup at factory to get those gears close to perfect mating

http://www.alpha-sports.com/spst/1981%20GS650GL/45.htm?q=suzuki-parts

[jchaplick21]

Even with crankcase bolts loosened, it's likely to fight you- probably have to pry it loose. Mark the existing orientation of bearing housing (part #16) on a crankcase half for fitup later and note shims that come off. This was a precision fitup at factory to get those gears close to perfect mating

http://www.alpha-sports.com/spst/198...q=suzuki-parts

Ok, good idea. If its that hard to get out, will it be impossible to get back in?

[tom203]

Ok, good idea. If its that hard to get out, will it be impossible to get back in?

Nope- it will tap back nicely And mesh gears. I hope that you find a real obvious problem in the secondary drive gears, but I'm skeptical that the 650 has the umph to damage anything but the clutch itself .

[60ratrod]

Actually, before i started having issues with they dyna, i was able to get the front off the ground while doing some test rides. There's a street i use on the weekends that doesn't see much traffic, and i got the front off the ground just a bit. I'd say it has enough. And they are also supposed to have 73 rwhp

[jchaplick21]

Nope- it will tap back nicely And mesh gears. I hope that you find a real obvious problem in the secondary drive gears, but I'm skeptical that the 650 has the umph to damage anything but the clutch itself .

I do too, after replacing the clutch drive and driven plates, along with the springs, what else do you think it could be? Im really starting to run out of ideas.

[tom203]

Get this thing in 5th gear- rotate rear wheel and shift until you're sure that you are in fifth. This trans is unique in that when in 5th the trans input shaft from clutch is locked to the output shaft to secondary bevel gears- no trans gears needed or used, direct drive from clutch to bevel gears. Can you test it to see if it still slips like this?

[jchaplick21]

Get this thing in 5th gear- rotate rear wheel and shift until you're sure that you are in fifth. This trans is unique in that when in 5th the trans input shaft from clutch is locked to the output shaft to secondary bevel gears- no trans gears needed or used, direct drive from clutch to bevel gears. Can you test it to see if it still slips like this?

Ok, so this would be with the engine off, shift into fifth gear, and see if there is still no transfer between the engine and the drive shaft? This is because in that particular gear ratio, it goes straight from the engine to the secondary gears as opposed to through the transmission? This would show that my issue is with my secondary drive gears as opposed to my transmission or would this show that my problem is still with my clutch?

Im very new to this so any in depth description and directions you can give would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you so much for all your help.

[tom203]

More exactly ,when the inner basket on clutch turns in 5th gear the secondary gear set turns at same amount. The driveshaft/ ujoint turns 16/17 of this amount. Here's a another pic to help visualize.

[jchaplick21]

More exactly ,when the inner basket on clutch turns in 5th gear the secondary gear set turns at same amount. The driveshaft/ ujoint turns 16/17 of this amount. Here's a another pic to help visualize.

Ok, but I'm still not sure what exactly it is I'm checking, and what I will learn from it. I'm sorry if I'm being stupid about it, but I'm very new to this kind of thing.

[jchaplick21]

Ok so I put it in 5th (I'm down to the drive shaft in disassembly keep in mind) and I looked in the oil cap. If it's a 1:1 ratio then any bit I can hand turn the u joint should spin the clutch basket correct? While I couldn't turn the u joint much, I could a little, and it the basket didn't move at all. I also can't seem to pull the gear out either.

[jchaplick21]

I pulled the secondary gear and it looks fine. Now I have no ideas. Anyone else think of anything?