No power to rear wheel. Not the hub splines. HELP

[tom203]

When you replaced clutch plates, probably would have been a good idea to pull basket and make sure all parts are still there behind basket, cuz you said this 10 days ago...

"Now i put my head down by the engine when I put the bike in first and I can hear a knocking or clatter when it's in gear.not sure if that changes anything. "

When basket attempts to turn trans input shaft in gear, it gets loaded- something has to be out of whack. Try putting socket on basket nut and rocking it. Might be able to borrow right socket from outboard motor shop- props have nuts about this size.

[Nessism]

Basscliff's website typically has the 650G manual but there are problems at the moment. If you search around there is some backup links available.

One link that cliff's site still has is one about repairing the secondary gears. Check this out just in case...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...pair_zooks.pdf

[jchaplick21]

Both the inner and outer basket seem to be spinning correctly. I didn't have the proper tools to take the basket apart, but I did do the recommended inspection s. There was no play I could detect in either inner or outer basket. The place where the sound I mentioned comes from is on the left side of the bike, behind the drive shaft. I'm not sure if that helps. Another thing I noticed was that when I had the bike on the center stand, I could rotate the wheel when it was in gear, but it had am interesting rhythm, I don't know the word to use, about two thirds of the rotation was easy and then it would get more difficultfor a third turn then get easier all the sudden.

I really appreciate all the help, I'm new to this, so any info is appreciated. Switching the clutch was the most in depth mechinical thing I've done to date, so that should give a little insight into my experience.

Thanks again,

John

[jchaplick21]

When you replaced clutch plates, probably would have been a good idea to pull basket and make sure all parts are still there behind basket, cuz you said this 10 days ago...

"Now i put my head down by the engine when I put the bike in first and I can hear a knocking or clatter when it's in gear.not sure if that changes anything. "

When basket attempts to turn trans input shaft in gear, it gets loaded- something has to be out of whack. Try putting socket on basket nut and rocking it. Might be able to borrow right socket from outboard motor shop- props have nuts about this size.

Maybe you are right. It can still shift without using the clutch.

[londonboards]

Could this be your problem:

Bevel drive broken

See if you can remove the rubber housing at the end of the shaft (engine end) and see into the universal joint.

[matt1100]

You won't find it in the manual because it is not the official way of doing it. There should be lots of results to a search for "secondary drive". Its definitely less work than pulling the engine, but it still takes a great deal of effort.

I would check the clutch again first. You said you fixed it. What, exactly, did you do in there?

[jchaplick21]

Could this be your problem:

Bevel drive broken

See if you can remove the rubber housing at the end of the shaft (engine end) and see into the universal joint.

I'll give it a look tomorrow when I have more light. What exactly am I looking for? I've peeled the boot back before but I didn't really know what to look for.

[jchaplick21]

You won't find it in the manual because it is not the official way of doing it. There should be lots of results to a search for "secondary drive". Its definitely less work than pulling the engine, but it still takes a great deal of effort.

I would check the clutch again first. You said you fixed it. What, exactly, did you do in there?

Well I took it apart obviously, the clutch plates were incredibly worn, they had zero friction surface left and a few nicks. The steel plates weren't too bad, a couple were pretty discolored but they weren't out of spec, I replaced them all anyway. There isn't Amy rocking or shifting in the basket. The basket isn't discolored or scored. I also pulled and inspected the bearings behind the pressure plate and relubricated them. The piano wire seal is also in good shape along with the metal gasket behind it.

Once reassembled the pressure plate and clutch plates spin together, either manually or while the bike is running. By looking at the drawings if the pressure plate spins with the clutch it should be transferring to the transmission I think.

[matt1100]

Fair enough. Sounds Like a thorough job. It well may be in thte secondary then. I think the manual will walk you through removing the tire and swing arm. Then you are loosening the bolts which hold the cases together near the secondary to release some of the clamping force the cases have on the output chunk. At the point the chunk still won't quite clear the frame, so removing the rear mounting bolts and loosening most of the front ones allows the back of the engine to be tilted up a hair with a pry bar, jack, or hoist. At that point the output piece should come out with very gentle coaxing. From there you can examine the gear set.

Good Luck!

[jchaplick21]

Fair enough. Sounds Like a thorough job. It well may be in thte secondary then. I think the manual will walk you through removing the tire and swing arm. Then you are loosening the bolts which hold the cases together near the secondary to release some of the clamping force the cases have on the output chunk. At the point the chunk still won't quite clear the frame, so removing the rear mounting bolts and loosening most of the front ones allows the back of the engine to be tilted up a hair with a pry bar, jack, or hoist. At that point the output piece should come out with very gentle coaxing. From there you can examine the gear set.

Good Luck!

Thanks so much, this is exactly what I was looking for.

I started the breakdown last night, I replaced and relubricated the hub splines with a new unit, so at least that won't be an issue. Now I just have to slowly work through the rest of the breakdown.

Is it necessary to drain all the oil again to remove the drive gears like you explained?

[Nessism]

I started the breakdown last night, I replaced and relubricated the hub splines with a new unit, so at least that won't be an issue.

What kind of grease did you use on the spline? Honda Moly 60 is popular in that application although I think it's been discontinued.

[jchaplick21]

What kind of grease did you use on the spline? Honda Moly 60 is popular in that application although I think it's been discontinued.

I searched for honda molly 60, but couldnt find it anywhere. I dont remember the brand, but I settled with the highest percent moly grease I could find.

[jsandidge]

I searched for honda molly 60, but couldnt find it anywhere. I dont remember the brand, but I settled with the highest percent moly grease I could find.

Go to a Honda dealer. They now sell moly 77, which they say is as good (maybe better?).

[60ratrod]

jchaplick21, pm me. I fortunately still have the manual downloaded. I can try to email it to you, if it isn't too big to email. it's the manual from bassclif's site.

[matt1100]

In the 1100 the gear oil and engine oil are separated. So, you can drain the gear oil without affecting the engine oil. Unless the seal between them goes, which is a whole other ugly can of worms. If the 650 is the same there is a drain below the drive half of the secondary gear (the big black circle under the cover the shifter sticks through.) You may puke when you see what comes out of there. I don't think mine had ever been changed before I got it 6 years ago.