Clutch rebuild ?

[Guest]

I have a engine noise on my 83 1100 e, so researching here I figure I would start with the clutch. first time I have attempted to fix a clutch. The first thing I noticed was the release that is in the pressure plate has a ton of play --check video- don't know if that's normal when no pressure is on it ? The basket has some marks on it that I guess I will file out, the rivits on the basket seem tight with no play do I still have to get them welded? The basket springs on the back 3 are loose how do you change them out ,or does the screwdriver method work? I do get on my bike hard everytime I go out. Also when I put the bolts in to take the spacer off basket I put the bolts in to far and it hit the bearing for the oil pump gear marking it slightly should I get a new one? IMG_8536.JPG Couldn't get more than one pic to upload ? how do you get a video to upload? Any help would be appreciated Thanks

[rapidray]

I build clutch baskets if you decide to go that way. Yes, you need to replace that bearing if you ran a bolt into it. That cage is pretty fragile. Let me know if I can help, I build a LOT of 16 valve GS engines & cylinder heads.
Ray.

[Lorenzo]

Upload the video on youtube or similar and post the link using the green reel icon (post a video one);

[turbojonn]

Ray is your man.

[londonboards]

Yes it's a cheap enough bearing to replace. I've only seen into 3 of these motors but they have all needed this bearing replacing. This is one of them:



I've seen worse outer clutch baskets. I would be tempted (if nothing else is wrong with it) to gently rub those burrs down a little and reuse it. Make sure there is no play like this if you have the inner basket with the steel insert:

They all rattle a bit:

Have you ever heard one of those Ducatis with external dry clutches? Might make you feel a little better:

Not so sure about all the rattling springs on the backing plate of the outer hub. All my bikes have lose springs here. They (I'm pretty sure) are not the cause of the dull rattling sound most common on these clutches. And I don't know if they are potentially problem causing. The only way to get around them is to have a complete clutch hub backing plate rebuild - grind off those 3 studs, replace the rattling springs, replace the thin backplate and weld it back up. This service is available in the US and the UK (Ape, Falicon ?) But is it essential - I don't know. If you were racing - of course - then you would probably want straight cut primary gear which would also involve a crankshaft rebuild.

I had a engine in which the clutch exploded (before I got it). Drop your sump plate and take out the steel filter. This is what I found in mine:



That was a well worn clutch!

BTW whatever Rapidray says is gospel. I've only done 3 - he has probably done 100s.

[Mad GS 750 E]

Thanks for the help so far. I forgot to mention when I went to take off the hub nut it was barely hand tight just the lock washer tab still holding it on, so I guess i'm checking this out just in time. Could the nut being loose cause a lot of noise? I'm hoping the video and pics are going to work. Couldn't get video to work yet,but here are some pics,the rivits on the back primary seem tight is this were u usually weld them ? if tight do they still need weldin?the other pic is the bearing 4 the oil pump I screwed up I will get a new one .I have 10 friction plates isn't stock 9?and where and what kind of plates should I buy? Already have the ape hub nut. also what do the springs on the back actually do. Thanks again I will try to get the video up tomorrow

[edgeofvamp]

The springs act as a buffer when engaging/disengaging the clutch. I am sure other guys will correct me, but they take the kick out of slipping the clutch and smooth the transition. Without them, when you roll of the clutch it would buck hard.

[Mad GS 750 E]

This is video of release http://vid428.photobucket.com/albums...psyhzyqdkp.mp4 is it suppose to be like that or do I need the little bearing on that part? Thought the video worked its only sound ????Sorry i'll try again

[Mad GS 750 E]

Ok hope it works this time what do you think about play? don't know if the video plays let me know .Oviouslly don't know what im doin.

[dorkburger]

Be sure to check out the spacers, shims, etc, as well. I thought my clutch was original.... I ended up finding a different basket, and missing shims that caused some damage, luckily which was caught before a catastrophe ensued.
20150417_174008.jpg top parts are the damaged ones. I suspect it was due to zero clearance due to the missing shim. The gear is the oil pump drive..... yikes....

[zuzu]

That is perfectly normal.

[londonboards]

Yeah that play is normal. It's not under tension from the clutch activator so it will flap about a bit.

[Mad GS 750 E]

Hey so aleast I know the play in the release is normal- thanks . So I have 10 friction plates and 11 metal ones is this ok ? All the clutch kits have 9 should I get a extra friction plate and go with ten? And what kit would you recommend?Thanks

[Mad GS 750 E]

So I have 10 friction discs and 11 steel disc ,will it be ok to buy the FBG 9 friction disc kit ? How do you kno if ur metal disc are shot, check with gauge they seem flat but they do have some wear marks on them . Can I sand or scuff them up to use or do I need new ones?

[Mad GS 750 E]

So has anybody used the fast by gast friction plates ,if so how many did it take to fill up basket 9? and how many steel plates does it take ? should the top plate behind the pressure plate be a friction plate or a steel plate does it matter?