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New Clutch --Wont disengage! 83 1100 E
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New Clutch --Wont disengage! 83 1100 E
(83 1100 E) Had another thread going about rebuilding my clutch, thought I would start a new one about the clutch not disengaging. So I reinstalled my clutch today everything seemed to go together ok .Put cover back on the release gears in cover seemed to mesh with the pressure plate push rod ok ,but when I buttoned it up the clutch lever felt fine but would not disengage the clutch. So I look in the fill hole and the pressure plate is moving ,probably about half way to the cover. I used fast by gast plates 9 friction and 9 steel plates which includes the one behind the piano wire. At a loss of why it wont disengage it work fine before. i tried to readjust the lever and the cable play made no difference. Is there a certain procedure to putting the cover on and lining up pressure plate release that is not in the manual? HELP PLEASE ThanksTags: None
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barnbiketom
Why do you think it's not disengaging..... you need to RUN the bike .. not just pull the clutch and see if the wheel slips. There's a lot going on with oil sticktion
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Mad GS 750 E
Originally posted by barnbiketom View PostWhy do you think it's not disengaging..... you need to RUN the bike .. not just pull the clutch and see if the wheel slips. There's a lot going on with oil sticktion
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Well, if this is related:
When I start my bike in gear, standing next to it (on side stand), it always leaps forward, even though the clutch lever is pulled all the way in. I've done that two or three times in the past two years, come close to dropping her, and always think, "I'd better not do that again."
The point is, I don't think that's abnormal. And yes, my clutch is adjusted and operates properly.
But the real point is, I'd like to see pictures of your H2! I can't be the only one.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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zuzu
You don't need to run the bike to get the clutch to disengage. You sure you got the release rack line up correctly when you put the clutch cover back on?
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Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
When I start my bike in gear, standing next to it (on side stand), it always leaps forward, even though the clutch lever is pulled all the way in. I've done that two or three times in the past two years, come close to dropping her, and always think, "I'd better not do that again."
The point is, I don't think that's abnormal.Last edited by bonanzadave; 11-29-2015, 10:48 PM.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
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Mad GS 750 E
Originally posted by zuzu View PostYou don't need to run the bike to get the clutch to disengage. You sure you got the release rack line up correctly when you put the clutch cover back on?
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New steels too? Also, thres a notch on the back of the clutch basket that the oil pump drive cogs into. Is that fitted properly? I just replaced my friction plates and the bike wouldn't disengage just like yours. My steels were warped. New steels and now its perfect. The stack height was even thicker with the new steels and it still didnt drag. There can be alot of drag when your first ride on a new clutch but it should go away very, very quickly.1981 GS 1100e turbo, 83 motor, turbo pistons, new head, new turbo, backed and welded clutch basket, Dyna S ignition, cbr 929 front end, gsxr 750 rear end with 190 tire, all carbon fiber covered bodywork.
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Originally posted by barnbiketom View PostWhy do you think it's not disengaging..... you need to RUN the bike .. not just pull the clutch and see if the wheel slips. There's a lot going on with oil sticktion
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Mad GS 750 E
Thanks for all the advice, I got the clutch to disengage after running it at idle for a while and starting it in gear with the clutch pulled in and the front brake on . I guess it was to much oil on the friction plates and they were sticking .Took it for alittle ride (38 degrees today here) clutch felt good .But I was doin the clutch to see if it was the engine noise I had, the clutch is definitely quieter but my engine noise is still there. I guess im guna have to look at cam chain adj or starter clutch. The noise seem to be louder at stator cover but sometimes it sounds like the chain . if I rev it the sound goes away but if I hold it up it comes and goes, at idle it sound like deep rattle. when I was riding today I noticed the noise more inbetween shifts. Can the starter clutch make a lot of noise sometimes louder than other times. I did a compression test this summer when I adj the valves and it was good 170's , the bike is running real good. If I take the stator cover off and its the starter clutch would it be oviously loose? Thank you Ray for offering to help me ,and when I get some extra cash to do the basket plate rebuild I'll let u know, it just wasn't in budget this time around. Thanks again --Mike
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Originally posted by bonanzadave View PostAhhh.....No, thats not normal. Mine does it too.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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jacksonator
i have the same problem with my gs850 new plates went for a ride gears was still sticking what can cause this problem need advise please
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