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Engine locked after removing rotor
1978 GS750. Trying to remove the rotor from the crankshaft; I took off the nut on the end of the crank, placed a metal rod (3/8" dia., 4.5" long) in the hole in the shaft, and turned a bolt in to press the rotor off. Rotor came off fine, but the metal rod is not coming out and the engine is locked up. The engine will not rotate now, I have tried moving it back and forth with the nut on the other end of the crank and no luck. Looks like It will have to come apart? Any ideas appreciated! The rod will rotate about 45* freely but will not budge in or out at all, just a little nub sticking out.
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Last edited by CrazyCloud; 12-29-2015, 11:00 PM.Regards,
Jason
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1978 Suzuki GS750 EC -
the rod most likely pressed into the end of the crank and expanded it and made it tight.....and I fear the threads for the rotor bolt are also trashed. I think I would get a MIG welder and make a series of heavy spot welds on the rod being careful not to hit the crank. Build it put so some more rod can eventually be welded on and gripped with vice grips. Use a hammer to tap the vice grips and see if the rod will play nice.
As for if then threads are bashed up........................thats a bummer.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it. -
Thanks Chuck, I'll give that a try. I assume I have to disconnect the battery before I weld it. ***Anything else I need to consider to not fry the electrics***?Threads on the rotor, rotor bolt and crank are good, I guess that's one positive!Last edited by CrazyCloud; 12-30-2015, 12:32 AM.Regards,
Jason
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1978 Suzuki GS750 ECComment
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Yeah unhooking electrical stuff cant hurt anything. Idea is to build the rod out far enough to be able to add an extention that can be gripped and used to maybe extract it. Maybe eveb consider drilling and tapping the rod and use a bolt to yank it out??? Guess its gonna take some thought and maybe come up with a few possible scenarios.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Was thinking about the rod inserted to cat as a press point for the rotor puller. I would think that there would be considerable pressure against the rod and subsequently at the bottom of the hole right where the bearings and connecting rod would be connecting to the crank...follow me??
Not saying it could happen as I havent ever done it, but maybe (hypothetically) the rod could have rammed thru the crank and theres casting jamming into the bearings and rod???? just trying to visualise that may be a possibility. If the rod comes out and it still wont roll over I would expect that the cases need split and the condition of the crank verififed....and it may be a good idea to just go ahead and open it up anyway to remove any doubts. Just some thoughts.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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I was able to weld a nut to the end of the rod without messing up the end of the crank at all. Turned it a little with the breaker bar and the rod broke free, with a little bit of leverage I was able to pull it out pretty easily. Pressure from the bolt had deformed the rod quite a bit causing the reluctance to exit. Engine turns over fine now
Now just considering weather or not to pull it apart to check everything.... I had assumed that the hole in the crank was just a shallow blind hole, you know what happens when you assume!Regards,
Jason
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1978 Suzuki GS750 ECComment
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Its bottom is basically across from where the first connecting rod journal is. Maybe get a real bright light ( like a bore light for a gun ) and take a look down the hole and surmise if the bolts give was sufficient not to cause any damage. A small endoscope would be handy for such situations too. Ive been contemplating buying one myself.
You were probably hitting and jamming the bearing..as you can see the rod would have been in line with the first cylinders rod like i was trying to explain. Hope alls well with the bearing.
Last edited by chuck hahn; 12-30-2015, 10:19 PM.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Service manual, Section2..page 12. Figure 1-23 shows the slide hammer tool Suzuki shows. shouldnt be too hard to fab one up.
MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Looking in the end of the crank everything looks fine, definitely no unintended holes or visible damage at least. I think you were right about the rod expanding at the end of the hole, it mushroomed at the bottom, in addition to 'kinking' along it's length. I will fab up a slide hammer if I need to pull it again for sure!Regards,
Jason
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1978 Suzuki GS750 ECComment
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Good thing the rod gave and not something else!!!MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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Chuck, bore lights can be bought cheap. The winchester light i had cost like $5 iircComment
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I know they are cheap..and bright which is why i made the suggestion. Someone a while back posted pics of an endoscope they got for around 100 bucks. Hand held and viewing screen right there. Was a cool little unit.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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If you can drill and tap a small 10-32 hole into that piece stuck and use a slide hammer (homemade) to yank it out that may be the way to go. If enough is sticking out a coupler nut(long nut) welded to end of stuck piece and slide hammer and yank it out, You peened over the end of the rod you stuck in ,perhaps with a small pencil grinder you can get it cleared and deburred so it comes out. Good Luck MikeComment
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