Is the OEM Clutch Cable Nylon Lined 1978 GS750B

[Guest]

Hello Gents:

My 1978 GS750 is introduced here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?237306-Carb-Work-1978-Suzuki-GS750-in-Canada

As I work through this bike, I'm wondering in the OEM clutch cable was nylon lined, and should not be lubed. The lever pull is not overly stiff, but if it would benefit from some oiling, I'd do so.

Can you tell from looking if the the cable is OEM and nylon lined?

With thanks.................

[azr]

I've never seen a stock clutch cable lined with nylon. Sometimes there's a bit of a coating right up top where it hooks into the clutch lever, as protection from chaffing, but the whole cable is not coated only the first few inches. If that's the original clutch cable do yourself a favour and buy a new one, 38 yrs use is long enough.

[John Park]

While you're thinking about it, also clean and lube the spiral thrust gizmo that the cable connects to; usually they have some sort of earwax substance in there that used to be grease….. amazing how well the clutch feels, and happier the cable is, when you've just done that.

[hillsy]

Most bicycle cables are nylon lined, but I cant say I've seen clutch cables anything other than steel wound lined.

This is the best thing since sliced bread:



You stick the lube in the small hole and spray away until the lube comes out the other end of the cable.

[WDHewson]

Thanks for your help guys.

I'll dribble some oil down the cable and see how she feels.

And I'll get into that clutch lift mechanism as in the attached image.

You can see that the cable has had a bit of abuse with the stranding disturbed, And no signs of oil in sight. The three Phillips screws holding the mechanism in place look unmolested, so I may be the first one in there since the factory. So if it's factory greased, it'll be overdue.

With some warm weather forecast, I'll find how the impact driver performs and take an image to share.

[Brendan W]

Thanks for your help guys.

I'll dribble some oil down the cable and see how she feels.

And I'll get into that clutch lift mechanism as in the attached image.

You can see that the cable has had a bit of abuse with the stranding disturbed, And no signs of oil in sight. The three Phillips screws holding the mechanism in place look unmolested, so I may be the first one in there since the factory. So if it's factory greased, it'll be overdue.

With some warm weather forecast, I'll find how the impact driver performs and take an image to share.

Hard to tell from the pic but that looks close to new cable. They let go at the worst possible time. Usually they break at the handlebar lever although I have seen some pull clean out from the clevis at the bottom end.
It's unlikely those screws are Phillips. More likely they are JIS, a Japanese industry standard. They can react very badly to attempted removal with a Phillips bit and get chewed up very quick to the point that it's dremel time. Your impact driver will lessen the chances of this happening and it looks like some have already seen a Phillips tool.

[bwringer]

An old clutch cable is not worth spending any time on. A new OEM clutch cable is less than $20 (at least in the US of A).

While you're at it, replace the old lever -- it's also surprisingly cheap and the hole where the cable end slots in gets egg-shaped with wear.

Avoid aftermarket cables and levers -- the OEM stuff is much higher quality and costs are very similar.

[tkent02]

Avoid aftermarket cables and levers -- the OEM stuff is much higher quality and costs are very similar.

+1 on the cables, but there are some kick ass levers and perches available which have bearings in the pivots, altered leverage, better adjustment and give a MUCH smoother and easier lever pull. I put one of these on my 450 and it helped the lever pull immensely:

http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/msx-34-1686?seid=pspse1&gclid=CjwKEAiA8qG1BRDz0tmK0pufw3QSJACfn6olFt70Wq3pcdOxuhVAXH6YUXiRcAuDfEs8KaL7WNnVixoCrdXw_wcB

[WDHewson]

Much thanks again guys.

I appreciated the help with the distinction between JIS and Phillips "crossheads". My impact bits seem to fit the Japanese crossheads without slop or play, and so work very well. But I do have an old Sears screwdriver labelled Phillips, that I never use, because its fit is so poor.

The cable sucked back quite a bit of ATF last night, and I did find from the GS750 Service Manual that clutch cable lubing is a maintenance item.

I'll take a picture when I get the lift mechanism out.

With appreciation for all your help...........

[fastbysuzuki]

Hello Gents:

My 1978 GS750 is introduced here.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?237306-Carb-Work-1978-Suzuki-GS750-in-Canada

As I work through this bike, I'm wondering in the OEM clutch cable was nylon lined, and should not be lubed. The lever pull is not overly stiff, but if it would benefit from some oiling, I'd do so.

Can you tell from looking if the the cable is OEM and nylon lined?

With thanks.................

many years I oiled my Oem clutch cable and it seized solid,put a new one one and have never oiled it since.

[WDHewson]

The red ATF that I dribbled into the top of the clutch cable appeared at the bottom of the cable in just a few hours. It didn't seem to flush any dirt or rust out, so the cable is reasonably clean.

And I've removed the clutch throw out mechanism which probably hasn't seen anything but the factory grease. So I'll clean up the old grease and slather in some new grease.

The ramp and ball system is a nice design as it's rolling friction rather than sliding friction, but even balls and rollers benefit from lubrication.

Here are a few images.

[WDHewson]

With the release removed.

[WDHewson]

The ramp system with the old grease.

[WDHewson]

With the balls and ramps cleaned and the grease renewed, and oil in the cable, the clutch lift is pure silk.

Thanks for the help guys.