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    Retorqueing motor

    Just rebuilt my motor and was wondering if I need to retorque my mains along with the head? Thanks, Andy

    #2
    What bike? What year?

    and yes... You need to re-torque all the engine bolts to spec.
    http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
    1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
    1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
    1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

    Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

    JTGS850GL aka Julius

    GS Resource Greetings

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      #3
      The factory manual has the maintenance schedule, including how often to retorque the head. They don't normally recommend the need to retorque the crankcase screws but it wouldn't hurt.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #4
        Thanks for the advice. I think I might have a problem though. I went to retorque my head today after putting 465 miles on the motor and pulled the sparkplugs and looking at the tops of the pistons they are wet with oil, no carbon buildup. The head is fresh with new valve stem seals. Does this sound like my rings haven't sealed properly? 1983 Gs750e w wiseco 816 kit

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          #5
          Could be. How did you run the engine to seat the rings?
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #6
            Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
            Could be. How did you run the engine to seat the rings?
            I did like the manual said for the first 2oo miles, didn't go over 4k rpm changing it up a bunch. Then my dynojet kit came in and things kinda went out the window

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              #7
              The tops of your pistons COULD be wet with gas if it is jetted too rich.
              Ray.

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                #8
                Originally posted by helmutholderbenz View Post
                I did like the manual said for the first 2oo miles, didn't go over 4k rpm changing it up a bunch. Then my dynojet kit came in and things kinda went out the window
                Yeah that won't work. Read this:

                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                  Yeah that won't work. Read this:

                  http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
                  That's a good article tk! Kinda on the lines of break it in on how your gonna be riding it. There are alot of varables in here though. The sleeves were honed with 400grit, my machine st said this was pretty rough for such a small piston and lent me a ball hone to smooth them out a bit. At the time it sounded like a good idea. My rings are new but not wiseco. The pistons are 1980s era xt virsions and you cant get rings for them anymore so I got some cast rings made

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                    The tops of your pistons COULD be wet with gas if it is jetted too rich.
                    Ray.
                    Ray, its not gas. By the looks of the sparkplugs the bike is running lean. I did a wot pull across a bridge and the plugs were pretty white. I called dynojet and asked about the problem and Mike told me white was common on pump gas these days. This was at 350miles. He said run it till my first valve adjust andsee how it was doing and if I wasn't happy I could go up to DJ134s

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                      #11
                      Sounds a little sketchy regarding the rings and hone. 400 is too fine for most common rings. 240 is a good general purpose grit number, 320 for chrome rings. Also, it typically works best to use a good bit of throttle from the get go to seat the rings. Fingers crossed it's just jetting.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        Sounds a little sketchy regarding the rings and hone. 400 is too fine for most common rings. 240 is a good general purpose grit number, 320 for chrome rings. Also, it typically works best to use a good bit of throttle from the get go to seat the rings. Fingers crossed it's just jetting.
                        Thats my bad I ment 200grit

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                          #13
                          Thanks all for the input, with all this being said, I probably missed my window for seating these rings. At just under 500miles would you think I could get away with another ball hone and a new set of rings or what should I do? Will these rings ever seat???

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I would think that if you were getting oil in the chamber, you would be seeing some blue smoke and the plugs would show signs of it. Have you checked your oil level to see if you actually are using oil?

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                              #15
                              Yes, there is some blue smoke and I've been having to add oil every 50 60 miles

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