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    Compression issues

    I'm very confused and could use some help.

    I just rebuilt the engine on my 1982 GS1100. APE in California did the valves, cylinders, piston. I put in new rings. I assembled it according to the manual; it's not my first time. I adjusted the shims. Everything should be fine.

    I tested compression and on 1, 2 & 4 it's around 90. On 3 its around 60. This seems low for what is essentially a new engine. I did a leak down on all pistons and 1,2 & 4 are fine. 3 is not.

    Any ideas?

    #2
    Only guessing that you did the compression test with WOT
    Rob
    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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      #3
      Originally posted by azr View Post
      Only guessing that you did the compression test with WOT
      What is WOT?

      Comment


        #4
        Wide open throttle
        Rob
        1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
        Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by azr View Post
          Wide open throttle

          WOT would lower the compression?

          Comment


            #6
            As far as I know. The bikes all together? Carbs on that sort of thing
            Rob
            1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
            Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

            Comment


              #7
              Doing a compression test with the throttle closed will show inaccurate numbers much lower usually and they could easily be way off each other likely due to your butterflies not being synched
              Rob
              1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
              Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

              Comment


                #8
                Have you run the engine yet? Double checked the cam timing?

                To do a proper compression test on a new engine you need to put some break in miles on it first. The engine should be hot and the throttle held wide open during the test too.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thank you all for the suggestions.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Look up the Moto Tune break in method. I don't think it's strictly necessary to follow their process to the letter, but a firm break in method is a very good idea.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You did a leak down test but didn't say what was leaking on the cylinder with low compression. When you do a compression test, you should do it without the carbs installed OR hold the throttle open which is more difficult unless you have three hands. Readings won't be right otherwise... When you install new rings, a crosshatch hone is done so the rings can seat... the hone is essentially a relatively random scratching of the surface of the cylinder walls. There is no point in checking compression till you have the rings seat. To seat new rings, you should ride the bike and vary the engine speed as mich as possible for at least 500 miles or so. Break in applies more to the fact that in times past when engines were new, the parts were not made to the close tolerances that modern water cooled engines are today. The parts had to wear in together so they meshed together. You bike engine was broken in 35 years ago or so. You must need to seat in the rings. Perhaps the valves/valve seats will seat in a tad but if they lapped in the valves properly after the valve job, it shouldn't be necessary.

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